Textures and unconventional materials have been taking over the runway at Paris Fashion Week, but none were as unexpected as the funky designs at Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 presentation. The designer prefaced the show by stating that his intention was to create tension in the collection so the pieces felt “more real, less precious.” And that’s exactly what he sent down the runway today—models walked in paper sweatshirts, plastic-wrap pants and a series of eye-catching accessories.
Inspiration was hard to pinpoint—a mash up of the ‘80s and futuristic punk might be too narrow-minded of a description. Every look sent down the runway conjured images of a different reference point which meant the collection severely lacked cohesion, but also kept you guessing. And aside from a few clear, plastic pieces that Rihanna might favor for their-body baring factor, most of the line felt wearable—if one is eccentric enough to pull it off. Mirrored sweatshirts, label-printed pantsuits and metallic fringe pieces littered the runway. While it was indeed abstract and almost experimental in its design, it felt mature and intentional—this was clearly not the work of a novice.
Accessories were clearly the focus of the collection. While knits and coats deserve a nod for their cuts and well-tailored structure, the accessories made the presentation. Mirrored swan broaches grazed the collars of blazers and dresses, metallic fringe bracelets dangled from the arm of models and iridescent shoes sparkled on their feet. Even the acrylic obi belts seemed like they would be street-style must-haves by the end of the week. The entire handbag collection was great, but a particular favorite was a clear vinyl bag with gold chain straps.
The best part of the collection wasn’t the juxtaposition between the suede jackets and plastic pants or even the attention-grabbing jumbo fish necklaces, it was that everything was immediately made available online. Starting today some of the runway highlights are available for purchase, which means early shoppers can be the first to own a pair of plastic pants, a disco-fringe skirt, or yes, even the jumbo fish necklace.