Jean Paul Gaultier is good at putting on a show. Sometimes it upstages his designs and other times it takes a backseat to his sartorial presentation, but there’s no denying the entertainment value of it. This season he was inspired by the infamous ‘80s Parisian nightclub Le Palace. So naturally, he recreated the club on his Spring 2016 couture catwalk. Models in punk-styled locks and garish makeup walked down the runway, smoking cigarettes, sipping Champagne and tossing air kisses to one another.
Gaultier can be almost too abstract or theatrical when it comes to his couture, resulting in a collection of relatively unwearable pieces, but this season felt casual. There was a line of pajama-like leisure suits and smoking jackets that were trimmed in gold lamé and satin. There were shorts and leggings, and a number of party dresses were given just a touch of sparkle and flair. Even his more flamboyant pieces were understated compared to previous seasons.
The influence of ‘80s punk was felt in everything from accessories to silhouettes. Checkered ties, band buttons and suspenders were found everywhere, adding edge to otherwise simple pieces like casual shirts and evening gowns. Blazers were given angular shoulders, an updated take on the excessive padding of the decade. Even shoes felt the influence—Dr. Martens-esque boots were decked out in glitter and given heels to make them nightclub ready.