Review: Jared Wentworth exceeding expectations at Trench

Chicago Tribune's Phil Vettel shares his review

Armando L. Sanchez / Chicago Tribune

The brick in the dining room at Trench has been painted white to connect visiually to the tile walls elsewhere in the space.

“The trouble with reopening,” said chef Jared Wentworth, “is that it can be hard for people to know you've reopened.”

Wentworth is tasked with reviving The Trenchermen, replacing chef Patrick Sheerin, who stepped down citing health reasons. Heisler Hospitality (Bad Hunter, Pub Royale, etc.) closed the restaurant in late December and reopened it as Trench on Feb. 1. Not the best time to catch the dining public's eye.

“It's tough to compete in the Paul Kahan Triangle,” Wentworth said, a joking reference to One Off Hospitality's formidable properties (Big Star, The Violet Hour, Publican Anker) in Trench's part of Wicker Park. “We just have to get the neighborhood to recognize we're open.”

This is a challenge that, I imagine, will be short-lived. Trench is packed on weekends already, and weekend brunch is getting attention. Midweek will take a bit longer but not much.

Read the rest of the review on the Chicago Tribune.

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