Chef Michael Tusk’s Quince offers a refined, modern Italian and French-inspired menu. But Quince’s adjoining Jackson Square sister restaurant Cotogna just shows another great side of the same chef, something mirrored in the spot’s name. Cotogna, which means “quince” in Italian, is a casual spot that harbors a more rustic menu featuring spit-roasted and grilled fish and meats, homemade pastas, and wood-oven pizzas that change daily. Don’t miss pastas like English pea tortelli; gnocchi with white, purple, and green asparagus; garganelli alla Bolognese, saffron pappardelle with hand-cut lamb sugo, and perhaps most important, the raviolo di ricotta with fresh farm egg and brown butter. Notable also are the Sunday Suppers, a four-course $55 menu that changes every week (with special menus for holidays), and the fact that you can even brown bag it — pick up your “BB sandwich” made with housemade bread (think fior di latte, asparagus, and bacon; muffuletta; and fried chicken and buttermilk dressing on brioche) and served with a side salad and a freshly baked cookie starting at 11:30 a.m. ($12).