it’s all the best of Southern food done well. In the sandwich department, the specialty is po’ boys, including the quite interesting fried pig ear variety. For a thrilling adventure, go for the buttermilk fried quail: you won’t be disappointed, unless you really, really don’t like gamey birds. In addition, Tuesday nights are fried chicken nights, and are definitely worth it for The Glass Onion’s exceptional brined chicken. And the drinks are not to be ignored, as the restaurant features a wine list of sustainable, organic, or biodynamic choices.
Chefs Chris Stewart and Sarah O’Kelley have succeeded in their intent to make The Glass Onion a “soulful” addition to Charlesotn’s comfort food scene. It’s never been totally clear to me why it’s called The Glass Onion, but hey, an Onion by any other name would taste as good. -- Arthur Newbould