It says something about New Haven-style pizza that you can find a menu ode to it nearly 3,000 miles from Wooster Street. Double Mountain Brewery in Hood River (from Portland, that’s about an hour east toward Connecticut), may have been named for Mount Hood and Mount Adams, the two volcanoes seen from Hood River, but the pizza menu’s heart is in New Haven:
“We make our 16-inch pizza pretty much the same way they do it in New Haven, Connecticut, the pizza capital of the world. We run our ovens at close to 700 degrees F, cooking the pizzas super-fast and creating spots of superficial char on the crust. It creates great flavor.”
How did a brewery in Oregon end up making Connecticut-style pizza? Owner Matt Swihart opened Double Mountain a block away from Full Sail Brewing, where he worked as a brewer for more than a decade. Former co-owner Charlie Devereux is from Connecticut and loved New Haven-style pizza. He saw there was a gap and wanted to bring brick oven pies to Hood River. More than seven years after opening, Double Mountain has gone from brewery upstart to pizza exemplar, its pies noted as among the state’s best, ones that feature a thin crust using regional grain from just over the river in Washington and integrate as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.
Best of the best? Double Mountain spokesperson Anneke Ayers noted the Truffle Shuffle and the Jersey Pig (sausage, onion, and mushroom) as fan favorites (in that order), but the specialty pie (whatever it is), is the real move. Of those, the asparagus pie is beloved, but according to Ayers, “Our current specialty pie is one of the most coveted seasonal pies we make, the Heirloom Pie. It is the perfect summertime pie made with fresh heirloom tomatoes with a pesto base made with local basil.”
— Arthur Bovino, 101 Best Pizzas in America 2015, 8/6/2015