This is my Sunday go-to dinner. I learned it in 1995 from a woman nicknamed Titi. She was from Genoa and married to Giorgio Gallizio, the man who hired me to open Giorgio's at the Pier in Juneau, Alaska. Giorgio wanted his wife to put some of her dishes on the menu. I was skeptical at first, but then she started cooking for me. Skepticism be gone! She made me some incredible dishes, like ravioli Genovese (sweetbread and brain ravioli), fried porcini mushrooms, and halibut with peas. The halibut was my favorite, and it went on the menu at Giorgio's. It was on my menu at Vetri for a while, too, but nowadays it shows up more often on my own kitchen table. My wife just loves it. Sometimes, I'll toss in a little chopped pancetta to make it richer. But don't even bother using anything but freshly shelled peas. The smaller, the better. Once they get too big, they go from sweet to starchy.