Jim and Suzy Gullett bought their first Amador County vineyard in 1984, acquiring an additional plot next door three years later. After a year of sampling southern Rhône and northern Italian wines nightly with their meals — a “difficult” task, they assure us — they decided that what they liked most of all was Tuscany's definitive sangiovese. Sacramento grocer and wine and food expert Darrell Corti arranged for them to visit top Tuscan producers and later found them sangiovese cuttings. After making nine vintages at borrowed facilities, they built their own winery in 1999. Today they make a pinot grigio, a barbera, a zinfandel, and a port-style wine (from traditional Portuguese varieties) but their pride and joy are what Corti calls their “lovely, typical sangioveses” — six different ones (plus a rosé), earthy and full of flavor. Extra points for “bottling” their basic version not just in glass but in a three-liter box, for the equivalent of $15 a bottle.