The Red Flag That Something's Fishy About The Salmon You're Buying

America's love affair with salmon runs deep. As the second-most consumed fish in the country (after shrimp), this seafood staple frequently graces dinner tables, with grilled salmon standing out as a top choice. However, when it comes to buying salmon, even the most discerning shopper can miss a few marks. Once skinned and filleted, determining the species of any fish gets tricky, but even more so in the case of salmon. It's almost like telling Merlot from Cabernet, especially if that beautiful reddish-pink hue on what you think is wild salmon is the result of clever marketing with farmed salmon. Yes, you heard that right.

Here's a startling truth: Farmed salmon is naturally white. Farmers add pigmenting compounds to salmon feed to create a pinkish hue before it's sold with a "wild" label at grocery stores. A 2024 study funded by the Seattle Pacific University Biology lab fund found that 18% of salmon samples from grocery stores and sushi restaurants were mislabeled, while a previous study by Oceana found that 43% of American salmon tested that was labeled as "wild" was actually farmed.

Paul Greenberg, author of the 2011 book "Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food," gives us a glimpse of this reality: "Every appearance of the species salmo salar, or 'Atlantic salmon,' in supermarkets today, be they labeled Canadian, Irish, Scotch, Chilean, or Norwegian, is farmed." In brief, if a label says "wild-caught Atlantic," there's a good chance it's fraudulent. To outsmart seafood fraud, it's essential to be armed with the right information. The best approach is to do a bit of research and ask the right questions at grocery stores.

American grocery stores typically have over five varieties of salmon: pink salmon, chum (also known as dog salmon), king salmon (or chinook salmon, the most expensive), sockeye (or red salmon), and coho salmon. Make sure the packaging identifies the type. King salmon flesh varies depending on its environment, while sockeye salmon has bright red flesh. Pink and chum salmon are typically lighter in hue. The season can also be a clue as to what kind of salmon is in your supermarket. Salmon season runs from May through the end of September. You can't typically find fresh-caught salmon outside of this window. Wild-caught salmon is always available — just not always fresh. You can buy it frozen, canned, or in a pouch — if it's labeled properly.

One easy way to distinguish farmed salmon from wild is by size. Farmed salmon is fattier and meatier than wild salmon but has a muted flavor. The fatty marbling is also more pronounced. Wild salmon is leaner and healthier, with a more muscular texture. Pro tip: If you spot the word "organic" on the label, it is most likely farmed. If you're buying a whole fish, you can also check the tail. Farmed salmon has a smaller tail and is more likely to have a damaged tail compared to wild salmon, which has a more fan-shaped tail. With these guidelines, it'll be easier for you to spot red flags in the salmon you're buying.