Restaurant Critic Roundup: Porter Discovers Denver’s Best Vietnamese Food, New York Critics Harp on Potential
As always, the ratings range from stars to bells to beans, but every review offers specialized insight into the food, atmosphere, and service of eateries in each city’s dining scene and the critics eating at them.
This week in New York City there is plenty of room for growth among the restaurants being reviewed. Bloomberg’s Ryan Sutton reports that Crave tried its hand at reinvention and relocation, but sits just on the cusp of "a step up" and "better with time." Likewise, SoHo’s Comodo oozes potential, but for the time being lacks an ironic necessity of salt, according to Stan Sagner of the New York Daily News. Pete Wells of The New York Times notes that La Vara in Brooklyn wins out in taste over appearance, but the noise level and the city’s obsession with small plates and big bills continues to frustrate.
Boston’s Back Deck promises the backyard barbecue feel, but Devra First of The Boston Globe deems many dishes to be lackluster: "What happened to 'everything tastes better on the grill?'" She does note that the premise and atmosphere at least give "something to feel festive about," however.
William Porter found "bliss" in a Denver Vietnamese hot spot, claiming it the best Vietnamese food in Colorado. He notes special touches such as free-range chicken and produce straight out of the garden.
From the East Coast to the West Coast, from North to South, the weekly restaurant critic roundup is here for all of your dining out needs.
Restaurant Critic Roundup: 8/22/2012
|Devra First||The Boston Globe||Back Deck||1 star|
|Jonathan Gold||The Los Angeles Times||Hui Tou Xiang Noodles House|
|Ryan Sutton||Bloomberg||Crave Fishbar||1.5 stars|
|Stan Sagner||The New York Daily News||Comodo|
|Pete Wells||The New York Times||La Vara||2 stars|
|Michael Bauer||The San Francisco Chronicle||French Blue||3 bells|
|Providence Cicero||The Seattle Times||Bake's Place||2.5 stars|
|Tom Sietsema||The Washington Post||Izakaya Seki|
|William Porter||The Denver Post||Vietnam Grill||3 stars|
|Eric Doksa||Charleston City Paper||Stack's Coastal Kitchen|
Check out last week’s Restaurant Critic Roundup.
Tyler Sullivan is The Daily Meal's assistant editor.