This week in restaurant reviews, "the award for the most improved restaurant of the year so far goes to Montmartre," according to The New York Times critic Pete Wells. "Prizes seemed unlikely after I ate there in April," he says, but "when I returned to Montmartre in May, Mr. Ho was tilting an impressive French boudin toward China by blending it with five-spice powder and surrounding it with a black vinegar reduction and a spicy-tingly oil of dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns. Boudin’s livery richness can start to taste flat over the long haul, but the Asian trick of playing blood against fire made each new bite as powerful as the first."
In Washington, D.C., "meat is the star of the menu at Del Campo in Chinatown." "Your first 10 minutes at the new South American grill involves a lecture on what the restaurant means, who’s behind it, how the menu is set up, how the food will come to you, descriptions of cocktails," and then finally some questions, says critic Tom Sietsema.
Near San Francisco, critic Michael Bauer reviews restaurant Sir and Star, where "the menu is divided by price." A Saturday four-course fixed-price menu is offered, however it's "not nearly as good a deal as the a la carte." The fun of dining lies in the "whimsical menu" however, where "The Faux Gras of Local Duck Livers So Delicious It Should Be Illegal ($12) tastes as rich as the banned substance" and the "Marrow in the Bone with a Jam of Local Onions and Tales That Once Wagged Nearby ($12) is equally well executed."
As always, the ratings range from stars to bells to beans, but every review offers specialized insight into the food, atmosphere, and service of eateries in each city’s dining scene and the critics eating at them.
Restaurant Critic Roundup: 6/12/2013
|Devra First||Boston Globe||The Farmhouse|
|Stan Sagner||New York Daily News||Prospect||4 stars|
|Pete Wells||The New York Times||Montmartre||2 stars|
|Ryan Sutton||Bloomberg||Prime Meats||2.5 stars|
|Michael Bauer||San Francisco Chronicle||Sir and Star||3 bells|
|Jonathan Gold||Los Angeles Times||AOC|
|Tom Sietsema||Washington Post||Del Campo||2.5 stars|
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Tyler Sullivan is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @atylersullivan.