One of the newest restaurants to open up in Brooklyn is about to give the upper echelons of the restaurant world a run for their money― at least in some way, shape, or form. Olmstead is an eatery far from the typical neighborhood restaurant that many are used to. It’s a part of what New York Times critic Pete Wells describes as, “the birth of a new restaurant elite that is even more exclusive than the old guard.”
“Torn scallops, bought at a discount, are threaded on skewers and charcoal grilled. They are as good and fresh as if they were whole, and I love how the pasilla chile in their dry rub nips at the sweetness of the creamed corn they rest on.
There is no $100 roast chicken but there is guinea hen two ways for $24. The breast meat is shot through with a fat green vein of ramp mousse; even more appealing is the second installment, a braised confit of the legs under morels and a lush ramp hollandaise. (If you’re there when the hen’s liver has been made into a honey-topped terrine, order it.)”
Wells explains that, “Olmsted is no competition to Atera and the other elite restaurants like it. But it is, in some ways, a challenge to those places, or at least to their notion that the best stage for a chef’s talent is the most expensive one.”
Though not everything on the menu wowed the New York Times critic, Wells awards Olmstead two stars.
For the complete review, click here.
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