The Retro Seafood Dish That Was Invented At A Steakhouse

Lobster and steak, also known as surf-and-turf, have always been a match made in culinary heaven, but before the two became the popular fine-dining pair, one steakhouse put lobster in the spotlight all by itself. Delmonico's, an upscale steakhouse in New York City's Financial District, is credited with introducing Lobster Newburg, also spelled Newberg. The rich and decadent retro dish is made with lobster meat, butter, heavy cream, egg yolks, Spanish sherry, and French cognac. You can then pour it over buttered toast, puff pastry, or biscuits.

Operating since 1837, the landmark restaurant catered to presidents, cultural icons, and every who's who of Wall Street with its famous Delmonico steak and luxury meals. While Hollywood legends and powerful politicians were regulars, it was a ship captain, a frequent diner, who inspired the chef to create Lobster Newburg. Ben Wenberg, who made his money in the fruit trade, came to manager Charles Delmonico one evening in 1876 with a new way he'd learned to cook lobster. 

After some tinkering around and Wenberg revealing his secret ingredient of cayenne powder, Chef Charles Ranhofer put it on Delmonico's menu, naming it Lobster à la Wenberg. The dish was an instant hit, until a feud between Ranhofer and Wenberg got it pulled from the menu. After relentless urging from patrons, the chef brought it back, rebranded as Lobster à la Newberg.

The ultra-rich cream sauce of Lobster Newburg was a natural fit for the Gilded Age of extravagant dining, which heated up just before the dish was introduced. The formal, French-influenced style of culinary indulgence remained popular until around 1900, and Delmonico's is credited not only with the seafood dish but also with changing how Americans dined.

Lobster Newburg has remained a staple on Delmonico's dinner menu. The restaurant now serves it with parsnip mousseline, puff pastry, and a cognac lobster reduction. According to TasteAtlas, besides Delmonico's, Boston's Union Oyster House and The Sole Proprietor in Worcester, Mass., are the best places to enjoy the dish.

For those looking to create their own version at home, you can get it straight from the source. The recipe for the retro seafood dish was published in Ranhofer's book, "The Epicurean," in 1894, which included various other Delmonico's recipes and notes on table and wine service. In that version, Lobster Newburg is served in Madeira wine.