What To Look For When Choosing Meat Cuts For Dry-Aged Steak

If you've ever tried dry-aging steak, you know that much like cheesemaking, it's an art in and of itself. For those who've tasted the umami-packed, beefy flavor of dry-aged steak and want to try the process at home instead of ponying up double for a store-bought cut, you'll need to do a bit of homework. There's a reason dry-aged steak is more expensive than regular steak — the process takes time and requires a tightly controlled environment. Not only do you have to dry the steak for a long time (at least a fortnight) for it to develop that concentrated, nutty flavor, but you also have to know a few key things when picking the meat. Our first rule of thumb is to choose a bigger cut over a smaller one. More specifically, a primal cut is ideal.

When you age and dry any kind of meat, it loses a significant amount of moisture, which means shrinkage. So, if you start with smaller cuts, you'll probably end up with a whole lot less. The shrinkage depends on how long you age it; for example, steak typically loses more than 10% of its weight after 21 days, which becomes nearly 35% if it's aged for 120 days. And that's before it even hits the heat — once it's cooked, it'll go down another size. By the time you're ready to plate it, you might feel like you're serving chops instead of steaks. This is why you should avoid dry-aging smaller cuts of meat, which brings us to the second challenge: picking the right one.

There are plenty of cuts to choose from when making steak, but you've got to pick the right one based on how you plan to cook it. When it comes to dry-aged beef, the process becomes even more nuanced. Be a stickler for high-quality meat with a generous amount of marbling. That intramuscular fat is what gives beef its juiciness and deep flavor, which makes ribeye a classic choice for dry-aging.

Ribeye typically has more marbling than most cuts, along with a buttery tenderness that holds up beautifully through the aging process. Tenderness, too, is a non-negotiable if you want to ace the dry-aging game, whether it's your first attempt or your 10th. In terms of both marbling and tenderness, New York strip fits the bill as well as ribeye. This cut comes from one of the least-worked parts of the cow, which makes it naturally tender. On top of that, it's fine-grained and develops a wonderfully concentrated flavor when dry-aged.

Of course, quality is of utmost importance here, but high quality doesn't always equate to a high price. Don't be afraid to experiment with less-expensive cuts like short ribs. They're at their best when slow-cooked, and dry-aging uses a similar low-and-slow transformation. Just be sure to pick higher-grade meat, whatever cut you choose, as this can make all the difference.

Once you've decided on your cut, there are a few other details to keep in mind when choosing meat to dry-age. First, whenever possible, opt for something with the bone in. This will likely be the case if you're working with a primal cut, but for smaller, sub-primal cuts, be sure to specify this to your butcher. While not a hard rule, the bone plays a substantial role in minimizing moisture loss. Think of it as a waterproof jacket for the meat, which helps protect the steak and encourages a more flavorful crust to form. Bone-in cuts can also be dry-aged longer for this very reason.

The other crucial element is the fat cap on top of the cut, so make sure it's left intact. Like the bone, the fat acts as a protective barrier, but it also enhances the complexity of the meat's flavor. Fat, whether in the marbling or on top, is one of the main reasons dry-aged beef tastes so rich and savory. Another reason why fat becomes sacrosanct in the aging process is that while the bone contributes to the outer crust, the fat helps regulate how much crust develops. It's a bit like the rind on cheese — it's essential for aging, but you don't want it to get too thick. Once those checks are out of the way, you can jump into the process and see firsthand why dry-aging makes steak taste so ridiculously good.