What Wines Pair with Latkes?

Conquer latkes with sparklers and other crisp quaffs

Oil and potatoes go together like bagels and cream cheese — especially during Hanukkah, when shredded spuds are fried in tribute to the rededication of the Second Temple and to the oil that miraculously burned for eight crazy nights.

Confused over quaffers? Don’t schvitz it. Nothing cuts the greasy goodness of oil, potatoes, salt, and pepper better than a sparkling wine such as the non-vintage Gruet Brut from New Mexico ($13.75), with its crisp, green apple flavors and toasty finish. This bubbly’s acidity and effervescence stand up to the fat, while the vibrant fruit complements traditional fruity dippers, like applesauce.

Swapping russets for sweet potatoes? Kick up the fruit factor with a dry rosé, like the 2010 Bieler Père et Fils Rosé from Provence ($9), a syrah-driven blend with wild strawberry aromas and flavors to complement the latkes’ elevated sweetness. In fact, the wine’s gorgeous minerality and acidity can handle a whole week’s worth of fried foods.

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