John Tesar’s Knife is a must-stop in Dallas where you either go big or go home. If everything is bigger and better in Texas, then Tesar has found the right spot to showcase his culinary chops. Being able to visit the restaurant where this notably colorful chef uses his bravado and boldness to create some of the best steaks that we have ever tasted was indeed an experience of culinary swagger, and taking a side step from the Las Vegas dining scene to visit this homage to the capital of meat empires was a trip well worth taking.
Knife is Tesar’s new star that shines amongst the Lone Star State’s steak houses and stands out among the myriad of Dallas’ upscale dining choices. With a stellar cast in the Kitchen and a superb front of the house staff, the stage is set for showcasing his state-of the-art dry-aging room. Looking upon the shelves of various cuts of beef, one marvels at the amount of marbled flesh that is waiting carnivorous connoisseurs. Having a room that places the meat in an environment of right amount of humidity, temperature, and time allows the connective tissues of the meat to break down into mouth watering wonders on the plate, and Tesar knows how to do it right. With just a salt rub, a little pepper, some olive oil, and a very hot oven, the gently aged meat is now transformed into a fabulous flavored entre.
The menu gives every meat-lover to abandon all concern for their wallet. Along with “old school cuts” of a 40-ounce filet mignon or a 45-day dry-aged, 24-ounce bone-in Niman Ranch sirloin, there are pricey offerings like Akaushi beef and a 240-day aged steak. Guests can also select the “new school cuts” of flat iron, tri tip, or a culotte among others. The homemade sausages — including spicy blood and Santa Barbara uni sausage — and the 28-ounce slow roasted bison rib eye for two, are as palate pleasing as the whole roast chicken with panzenalla salad , or the oxtail ravioli with parmesan monte and aged balsamic. Numerous visits to experience the generous and bold menu offerings will be a weekend ritual for the visitor and local alike.
We were able to start our meal with lovely yellowtail sashimi, accented with Texas ruby grapefruit, avocado, murray salt, and a touch of sriracha with a drizzle of Ligurian olive oil. The first bite by my guest was accompanied with the exclamation, “If this is the beginning, we are in for an amazing dining experience,” and they were correct.
The wedge of iceberg was more like a head with a generous helping of creamy dressing that was enough for several diners. The bacon tasting of five different yet unique pieces, gave us a glimpse on how bacon should be prepared: a bit crispy with the distinctive oily chewiness that mingles flavors of smoke and salt. With our palates ready for the main event, we were ready to indulge in the 21-day dry aged, 18-ounce 44 Farms sirloin au Poivre with frites. Every bite was sumptuous and succulent—the kind of good that makes you want to bring your friends and neighbors to indulge with you. We also paired our dinner with a gorgeous Crianza wine that yielded its spicy elegance to the beauty of the meat. The fini to a fabulous feast was a dessert of cheesecake comprising a lovely graham cracker macaroon, cheesecake mousse, and ice cream to create the perfect sweet ending to a perfect meal.