Lincoln's Bistecca Alla Fiorentina

The Dry Aged Côte de Boeuf at Minetta Tavern. The Côte de Boeuf in Beef Seven Ways at Má Pêche. The Creekstone Farms 50-day dry-aged sirloin at Marea. For New Yorkers who have checked off steaks like these from New York City's recent highflyers, there's a new steak in town: Jonathan Benno's Bistecca Alla Fiorentina per due at his much-buzzed about restaurant, Lincoln.

The 28-day dry-aged prime black angus sirloin ($90) is brought whole tableside and then dashed off to be carved and plated over a shiny, thin puddle of cipollini agrodolce, Benno's rendition of the traditional Italian sweet and sour sauce. The dish's most interesting feature is the bone marrow sformata, a creamy molded custard replaced in the bone. Ordered medium-rare, the steak arrived tender, juicy, pink and well-seasoned. It's strong, though not likely to be described as the subject of daydream and fantasy.

Lincoln - (212)359-6500- 142 W 65th St, New York, NY, 10023.