Just Released: Biserno Wines From The Creator Of Ornellaia

Lodovico Antinori is back.

The creator of Orenellaia, one of the great super Tuscans from the coastal Maremma area near Bolgheri, has now moved a few kilometers north and established a new set of IGT wines at the Tenuta de Biserno estate in Bibbona, joining with his also-famous brother, Piero Antinori, in the ownership. Planting started in 2002.

"I thought that the cabernet sauvignon was getting a little herbaceous in Bolgheri, except for Sassacaia," he says, "so we planted more cabernet franc and a higher percentage of petit verdot, which I love."

Here's what he has to offer us:

The 2008 Il Pino di Biserno ($80), a Bordeaux-grapes blend, is still very tight — it will open with age or airing — with a lean structure and the flavors of dried blackberries. It has a hint of vermouth vapors at the finish. As a pairing, grilled filet mignon would bring out the best in this second wine of the estate.

The 2008 Biserno ($180), mainly merlot and cabernet franc, is also very well-structured with similar dried blackberry flavors. But it is a little more elegant and generous than the junior wine. It reminds me of the vinous version of a soufflé with a crust — a soft, mushroomy interior with just a touch of mint and briers — surrounded by crunch tannins. In fact, a nice, crusty goat-cheese soufflé with grilled vegetables might not be a bad pairing.