Hidden In Plain Sight
Americans' love affair with Italian wine has raised awareness of that country's greatest appellations. Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti, and Brunello are well-known in the States, but their high status also translates to high prices. Lying quietly within many of these regions are smaller sub-regions that produce delicious wines from the exact same grapes. Wine lovers seeking affordable Italian options should discover these hidden gems.
Val d'Orcia
During a tour in fall 2017, I fell in love with the beauty of the landscape of Val d'Orcia, an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It seems to represent everything Tuscan: white truffles, pecorino cheese, olive groves, medieval hill towns with cypress trees dotting the landscape — and quality Sangiovese wines.
Orcia is a region of family-run wineries, small in scope but big in hospitality. These vintners embrace the beauty of their region and seek to capture it in each bottle. The zone lies in the heart of southern Tuscany, in the valley between Montepulciano and Montalcino; chances are good that if you've visited Tuscany, you've driven through Orcia.
This historic region was awarded DOC status in. Orcia DOC wines are must contain a minimum 60% Sangiovese, while Orcia Sangiovese and Orcia Sangiovese Reserve wines must have at least 90%. The wines are crafted in an approachable style, medium-bodied with smooth to grippy tannins, but are ready to drink on purchase. They offer familiar Sangiovese notes of red fruit, dried red flowers and herbs, and aged balsamic – available from $25 – 45.
Producers to explore include Frattoria del Colle Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Sasso di Sole, Campotondo, Podere Albiano, Poggio Grande, Marco Capitoni, Roberto Mascelloni, Loghi,Valdorcia Terre Senesi.
Roero
Roero is an ancient wine-producing region of Piemonte lying just opposite Barbaresco on the Tanaro River. Known for high-quality red wine crafted from Nebbiolo, the region was upgraded to DOCG status in 2005; in 2014 the Consorzio was established to raise awareness for this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The undulating hills are constituted of marl-sandstone with limestone and clay of ancient marine origin, and the vineyards are surrounded by orchards and forests (removed long ago for vineyard expansion in other parts of Piedmont).
The terroir delivers approachable, medium-weight wines, both red and white, with perfumed aromatics and mineral notes. All are high quality — rivaling their Piedmont counterparts — but with lower price tags, and ready to drink on purchase.
Roero Nebbiolo DOCG offers notes of red and black fruits, red flowers, spice, licorice, smoke, and minerality, with tannins from smooth to grippy – available $15 – $30. Arneis is the signature white wine of Roero. One of one of my favorite varietal whites, the Roero editions are highly approachable and fresh. Typically vinified in stainless, they express notes of flowers, citrus, and stone and tropical fruits. An ideal warm-weather white, Arneis is a wine to sip or pair with a wide variety of cuisine – prices range from $15 – $25.
Producers to seek out include Matteo Correggia di Costa Ornella, Battaglino Fabrizio, Filippo Gallino di Gallino Gianni, Marco Porello, Azienda Agricola Demarie, Cascina Val del Prete, Malvira, Marchesi de Barolo, Cornarea, Monchiero Carbone, Azienda Agricola Negro Angelo e Figli di Giovanni Negro,
Franciacorta
Beautiful places produce beautiful wines. I spent a week recently in Franciacorta, in the northern Italian region of Lombardy, and found the landscape breathtaking. Its snowcapped pre-Alps rise from the earth like gentle giants kissing the sky, while Lake Iseo, serenely nestled among the mountains, shimmers like a sheet of blown glass.
This is an ideal climate for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and Franciacorta has become a region known for its traditional-method sparklers made from these two grapes — yes, just like in Champagne. First produced in 1961, the wine was awarded DOC status in 1967 and DOCG in 1997. Soils are a mix of six different types, a jumble of terroirs caused by Alpine erosion. Organic farming is widespread.
Despite the high quality of these wines, Franciacorta as a category faces several challenges in the market. It's unfamiliar to many American consumers, who think of the much cheaper (and easier to make) Prosecco when they think of Italian bubbly, and the wines are also hard to find on shelves. The Consorzio is actively working with producers to increase consumer recognition and availability, and I hope they succeed. The wines are food-friendly, offering notes of fresh citrus, orchard fruits, and white flowers, with cleansing high acidity and a savory tinge from bottle conditioning. Prices range from $20 to $40, making them a good alternative to the more expensive French sparklers.
Here are some producers to explore: Barone Pizzini, La Montina, 1701 (biodynamic), Bellavista, Ferghettina, Ca' del Bosco, Majolini, Berlucchi Guido, Monte Rossa, Ronco Calino, and Ricci Curbastro.
Can't find these wines on store shelves? Speak up! Retailers want to carry wines you want to drink. Mention these wines to your favorite purveyors and ask if they can source them for you. You'll be glad you discovered these hidden Italian gems.