Cheese Demystified: The Funky, Stinky, and Scary (Slideshow)
October 31, 2013
Cheese expert Christine Hyatt unmasks cheese
Hubbardston Blue from Westfield Farm in Massachusetts may look alarming, but is ultimately delicious. When it was first entered into competition — it won Best of Show in 1987 and 1993 — an entirely new category had to be created to accommodate this externally rinded blue cheese.
The 5-ounce, disc-shaped cheese has a downy white rind with hints of blue. Similar to a Brie but made with goat’s milk, the cheese has an edible penicillium rind and a soft, spreadable consistency. The cheesemaker adds blue cultures to provide additional flavor complexity.
Wabash Cannonball is a stunning little cheese hailing from Capriole Goat Cheese in Indiana. Best of Show 1995, the cheese has a unique velvety, convoluted rind that resembles a brain, a common characteristic of geotrichum rinds. You may also notice a thin layer of vegetable ash, which adds visual appeal and is traditional in French-style cheeses upon which this cheese is based.
The stark, white interior paste is tangy and sliceable with a bit of softening or even oozing beneath the rind, depending on the age of the cheese. The younger the cheese, the firmer the paste. Cheeses with a bit of age may run a bit when cut. Simply scoop up with crusty bread and you’re in heaven!
In 1996, the smallest Best of Show winner was crowned as the diminutive Bluebonnet took top honors. Made by Westfield Farm, famous for the Hubbardston Blue, above, these 1-ounce, barrel shaped rounds come in a three-pack and are dark and mysterious like a night sky on the outside with a firm, chalky and totally tasty interior.
These tiny treats start out as a Classic Blue Log, which the cheesemaker inoculates with penicillium roquefortii, a culture which results in blue veins. The logs are sliced to maximize surface area — blue molds grow when exposed to oxygen. The slicing means a perfect single serving size cheese with tangy, bright notes, and a distinctive kick of blue.
2003 Best of Show winner Red Hawk is an orange-rinded, 1-pound round with a bold aroma and funky flavor, a hallmark of a "washed rind" cheese. Made by Cowgirl Creamery at their original Point Reyes Station location, production of this cheese depends on the cool, coastal breezes and unique microflora of the area for its character.
The interior paste has an almost butter-like richness that comes from the extra cream added to the locally sourced cow’s milk from Strauss Family Dairy. During aging, the cheese is regularly washed with brine to encourage the naturally occurring brevibacterium linens to colonize on the rind, transforming the interior paste to a smooth, rich, spreadable consistency.
Rogue River Blue
Rogue River Blue is a two-time Best of Show winner in 2009 and 2011 made in southern Oregon by the historic Rogue Creamery. The blue veining in this cheese can be alarming to some, but try it anyway. You’ll be rewarded by complex yet balanced blue flavors and a dense, sweet paste with hints of pear, bacon and cream.
Perhaps the ultimate autumn cheese, wheels are made only between the autumnal equinox and the end of the grazing season using the extra-rich, late lactation cow’s milk from the creamery’s nearby dairy. Aged for a year and wrapped in local syrah grape leaves, which have been macerated in Clear Creak Distillery Pear Brandy, this cheese is truly a taste of Oregon.