Today’s Burberry Prorsum show—named The Birds and The Bees—appeared to be about contradictions, about the soft and the gentle mixing with the sporty and fun, all clashing with the edginess of rock and roll. It was a beautiful collision that only reinforced the reasons why Creative Director and CEO Christopher Bailey’s show is the hottest ticket on the London Fashion Week schedule.
Bailey once again showed within the grounds of Kensington Gardens, in the shadow of the Royal Albert Hall. His tent displayed the brand’s spring-summer graphics across its ceiling in bright colors that gave a hint of what was to come, under which filed in his many, many guests. Amidst the hordes of excited press, buyers and clients sat a stellar front row, the most popular pair of which was undoubtedly Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne—the two faces of the new My Burberry campaign were surrounded by a scrum of photographers right up until the show began. Around them sat Cara’s sister Poppy, Mario Testino, Olivia Palermo and Anna Wintour.
And then, to a live acoustic rock soundtrack provided by British singer-songwriter James Bay, out came the clothes, and it was a case of utility versus femininity. Cropped and fitted denim jackets lined with sheepskin sat above gentle skirts made from layers of wrapped organza, others covered with round, colored paillettes. Beneath them? Sneakers with colored trims.
Sheer silk was a big theme again for Bailey, and nowhere did he use it more beautifully than on a crimson pleated dress that darkened at the hips to lend just a little bit of modesty. But again, as Bay’s rock-voice soared, came the contradictions—said dress was paired with sporty sandals and one of the boxy bags that formed the backbone of Bailey’s accessories collection.
Of course there were trench coats—this is Burberry after all—and in keeping with the theme they came in mustard yellow and aquamarine suede versus denim with PVC epaulettes and pockets. Most striking of all, however, were the ones printed with those SS15 graphics. For the finale, every model marched out wearing one, a veritable Burberry army in reds and fuchsias, in yellows and greens, printed with words like “Summer” and “Sun”.
And as the sun shone through the kaleidoscope ceiling—London hasn’t quite given up on summer yet—and the man himself took his bow, Bailey’s guests roared their approval, as the superstar of the London schedule had done it again.