10 Spring White Wines from the Old World

Contributor
10 Spring White Wines from the Old World
Askos Verdeka

Very good wine that has lots of apple flavors, spices and some overtones of grappa without the alcohol.

If you have a porch or a patio, now is the time to get a chilled bottle of white wine and celebrate the demise of a long winter.

This week, we have 10 Old World whites, all but one from Italy, that have a very interesting array of origins and indigenous grapes. Next week, we try a like number of New World whites.

2012 Marco Felluga “Mongris” Collio pinot grigio ($18).  A nicely nuanced wine with mellow apple and creamy citrus flavors – the chardonnay side of pinot grigio.

2011 Marco Felluga “Molomatto” Collio bianco ($23). This blend of pinot bianco, tocai friulano and ribolla gialla produces a very nice food wine that is fruity and spicy – pineapple and grapefruit with some black pepper around the edges.

2012 Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio sauvignon ($26). Lots of pineapples and apples with nice skin notes, great structure and light tannins – an excellent sauvignon.

2012 Paul Mas Coteaux Languedoc picpoul de pinet ($12). My Pick of the Litter.Picpoul is one of those obscure grapes that has a following the way a cute puppy would – and would good reason. Its apple aromas, skin flavors and minerality remind me of a white burgundy, perhaps a pouilly fuissé. Very nice fruit with some sprinkles of tingly white pepper and a finish of white peach.

2012 Masseria Li Veli Valle d’Itria IGT verdecca ($18). Very good wine that has lots of apple flavors, spices and some overtones of grappa without the alcohol.

2012 Li Veli Puglia fiano ($12). The wine is interesting without being totally charming. Its floral and gamey notes somewhat fight each other, and a food analogy would be of pairing a pear with a tangy cheese.

2011 Garofoli “Podium” verdicchio dei castelli di jesi classico superiore ($25). Great texture is combined with pepperiness, melons and tropical fruits to create a wine that is big on the palate yet well-balanced – great with meaty ocean fishes or poultry with cream sauces.

2012 Garofoli “Macrina” verdicchio dei castelli di jesi classico superiore ($14). More in the traditional style with minty flavors of green fruits and a lean structure – good for lighter fare or wine by the glass.

2013 Piccini delle Venezie pinot grigio ($10). A serviceable wine, somewhat light with pleasant mellow-apple flavors.

NV Piccini “Memoro” Bianco ($10). I usually don’t expect much from a non-vintage wine whose grapes come from all over Italy – Sicily to Trentino to Maremma – but this one is quite interesting with an unctuousness one normally sees in riesling and some chalky creaminess.  Not a great wine, but certainly one with some personality. 

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