Visiting Tuscany's Top 50 Winemakers... And Sting
I have high expectations for all my trips. For certain trips I have really elevated expectations and when these are exceeded, as was the case with the recent Divino Tuscany, it truly is one of the most
James Suckling, prominent wine industry figure, conceived of the event. The dream was to convene the "top 50 Tuscan winemakers" (as rated by James over a 30 year period) in Florence and prevail upon them to pour not only their current vintages, but also wines from their cellars that were considered among the very finest of the last two decades. They did not disappoint and the wines were, for the most part, poured in large format bottles — Magnums, Jeroboams, even the odd Imperial — and paired with sumptuous Tuscan cuisine.
All of this was set against the backdrop of the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence. It is called a hotel, but it's more like a compound with 16 acres of manicured gardens in the heart of the city that, on every level, over-delivers. It is an oasis away from the tourist claustrophobia sometimes associated with the city. Remarkably, the serenity of the gardens is not even impacted by the drone of robotic lawnmowers. Lamborghini shaped automatic lawnmowers glide silently across patches of lawn, obediently turning around at the verges to continually mow the lawn. I mean, who can't love a hotel with miniature robotic lawnmowers?
I can distill the reasons for my exceeded expectations down to two things. First, the winemakers. They were all on hand to pour their own wines. They were engaging, animated, and as keen to talk as they were to listen. A great deal of thought was put into the way the tastings were structured. Rather than the winemaker standoffishly pouring wines to an overcapacity crowd form behind a rectangular table, they languished next to a bar height circular table and poured wines while engaging no more than a couple of people at a time in conversation. Sort of like meeting a friend for a drink at a bar, if your friend made Ornellaia, Sassicaia, or Frescobaldi.
Secondly, Sting. The event culminated in a traditional Tuscan pig roast hosted by the singer and his wife Trudi at their home, just 45 minutes outside of Florence. It was the highlight of my trip. In the intimate company of a global superstar, you are never quite sure what to expect, would it be awkward, staged? Au contraire.
To start, there is the setting. The villa Il Palagio (pictured) is an appropriately scaled beautifully restored Tuscan Villa (no mega mansion here). The surrounding gardens are the real draw. A mix of lavender and roses interspersed by statues, fountains, and wild honeysuckle growing among gnarled old olive trees. And the hosts? At one point I was nursing a glass of rose and listening to the (quite excellent) Cuban band Tiempo Libre playing in the garden when I glanced to my right to see Sting leaning against a pine tree, barefoot in a pair of drawstring linen pants and sipping on a glass of red wine. His wife could scarcely have been more gracious. It was just about then that I was considering asking if the guest bedroom was available...
Over the course of the four days, the tutored tastings were another great feature. Super Tuscan producers (Frescobaldi, Petrolo, Ornellaia, Tua Rita) provided insight into their wines, the region, and their ethos. Next, a panel of Brunello producers (Siro Pacenti, Valdicava, Frescobaldi, Casanove di Neri) highlighted the nuances of this Sangiovese clone and the area around the village of Montalcino that it is
The quintessential Italian way was imprinted on the trip and the event. Italians are vivacious and their approach to life is one of abundance — no more personified than by their attitude toward food: why have a slice when you can have the whole loaf? I was fortunate to have dinner with Luca Sanjust at his Petrolo vineyard and property outside of Florence. A slab of melt-in-the-mouth prime rib accompanied by a plate of cannellini beans drizzled with his own olive oil made a perfect accompaniment to 2006 Galatrona, his highly regarded Merlot. You may not have heard of it yet, but buy it before you can no longer. Many knowledgeable Pomerol lovers were likening it to Petrus.
I have already etched this event into my calendar for 2012. I know you will be coming with me, so you should do the same.
Favorite Wine: Petrolo Galatrona 2006
Favorite Meal: Traditional Tuscan pig roast at Sting's villa, Il Palagio
Favorite Accommodation: The Four Seasons Florence
Most Memorable Moment: The startling realization that the phrase "these wines have a sense of place" really is true.
Click to learn more about Travel Sommelier's bespoke wine tourism and luxury safaris.
(All photos courtesy of Darren Humphreys)