Restaurant Critic Roundup: 3 Stars for New York's Betony
This week in restaurant news, critic Alan Richman samples the fare at Smorgasburg, on Saturday in Williamsburg, and on Sunday in DUMBO. His Saturday morning began with questioning those in the three-hour-long line for the infamous ramen burger, and instead waiting three minutes for a cup of coffee from "Blue Bottle Coffee, which attracted near-ramen-burger-type frenzy when it set up a stand at the Ferry Building in San Francisco years ago." On Sunday, then intent on trying a ramen burger, he found that there was no line, and also, no ramen burger. "I guess DUMBO isn't cool enough."
In San Francisco, critic Michael Bauer reviews restaurant Roka Akor, and says, "you can't help but be impressed" with what's been done to the "awkward space at the corner of Jackson and Montgomery." "Arcanum Architecture, which also designed Poggio, Copita, Camino, and Original Joe's," he says, "renovated the 115-seat interior and hits the high notes of modern design. A prominent open kitchen is fronted by a counter stacked with more than 25 different plates and platters used for the various specialties."
Back in New York, Pete Wells bestowed three stars on Betony, which opened this spring on West 57th Street. Chef Bryce Shuman, who spent six years in the kitchen at Eleven Madison Park, has created a near-perfect roast chicken, and "the most soulful" foie gras Wells has ever tasted.
As always, the ratings range from stars to bells to beans, but every review offers specialized insight into the food, atmosphere, and service of eateries in each city’s dining scene and the critics eating at them.
Restaurant Critic Roundup: 8/28/2013
|Gael Greene||Insatiable Critic||Sweetgreen|
|Todd A. Price||Times-Picayune||Jubilee|
|Pete Wells||The New York Times||Betony||3 stars|
|Michael Bauer||San Francisco Chronicle||Roka Akor||4 bells|
|Clarissa Wei||Los Angeles Times||The Palace|
|Brad A. Johnson||OC Register||Early Bird|
|Scott Reitz||Dallas Observer||Mercat|
|Tom Sietsema||Washington Post||Etto||3 stars|
|William Porter||Denver Post||Refuel||2.5 stars|
|Robert Moss||Charleston City Paper||Básico|
Click here for The Daily Meal's "Top Chefs Review — and Rate — America's Food Critics."
Tyler Sullivan is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @atylersullivan.