Restaurant Critic Roundup: Yearning For Simpler Times At New York's Beatrice Inn

This week in restaurant reviews, Washington, D.C.'s Al Tiramisu wins points for consistency. "When I'm asked where to go for Italian," says critic Tom Sietsema, "Al Tiramisu in Dupont Circle is usually on the tip of my tongue."

In San Francisco, critic Michael Bauer reviews restaurant Hard Water, where the hostess seems to have the hardest job of them all. "It must not be easy for her to tell people there may be an hour wait before they can nab an unreserved seat or standing space at the counter," he says.

In New York, critic Pete Wells reviews the Beatrice Inn. "If we have a shred of sanity left, those of us who never stop thinking about what we're eating have to wish that once in a while we could turn back the clock," he says. And this "yearning for simpler times may explain the Beatrice Inn in the West Village, which has been packed to its low rafters since it opened in November."

As always, the ratings range from stars to bells to beans, but every review offers specialized insight into the food, atmosphere, and service of eateries in each city's dining scene and the critics eating at them.
 

Restaurant Critic Roundup: 5/22/2013

Critic Publication Restaurant Rating
Katie Johnston Boston Globe Cheng Du  
Michael Kaminer New York Daily News Sen 1 star
Ryan Sutton Bloomberg Montmartre 2 stars 
Pete Wells The New York Times The Beatrice Inn Satisfactory
Michael Bauer San Francisco Chronicle Hard Water Bomb
Tom Sietsema Washington Post Al Tiramisu 2 stars
William Porter Denver Post Sassafras 2.5 stars

 

Click here for The Daily Meal's "Top Chefs Review — and Rate — America's Food Critics."

 

Tyler Sullivan is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @atylersullivan