This week in restaurant news, critic Pete Wells gives four stars to the West Village’s Sushi Nakazawa, where chef Daisuke Nakazawa was late for dinner at his own restaurant but nonetheless slid behind the counter and delivered with "eye-opening" sushi. Wells assures us that "almost everything Mr. Nakazawa cups in his hands and places in front of you is an event on its own." "A piece of his sushi grabs control of your senses, and when it’s gone, you wish you could have it again," he says.
In Portland, Ore., Sen Yai Noodles serves noodles for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in five different shapes and sizes. "Sen Yai has a large menu, and anyone who perseveres will find a few dishes he likes," says critic Alan Richman. "Once you’ve found them, stick with them." He recommends the Phat Sii Yew, which he says are "those signature wide, flat rice noodles plus pork, Chinese broccoli, egg, and black soy sauce." "Here the noodles absorb the flavors of the other ingredients, a characteristic prized in Italian noodle dishes."
In San Francisco, Michael Bauer reviews Sinbad's, where he says the menu, like the restaurant, is "on the retro side." "Whenever blackened red snapper (or blackened anything) is on the menu, it's a good bet that innovation halted in the 1980s. Lobster Thermidor hasn't been popular since Continental cuisine went out of style."
Restaurant Critic Roundup: 12/11/2013
|Gael Greene||Insatiable Critic||Rotisserie Georgette|
|Alan Richman||GQ||Sen Yai Noodles||1 star|
|William Porter||Denver Post||Humboldt||3 stars|
|Michael Bauer||San Francisco Chronicle||Sinbad's|
|Pete Wells||New York Times||Sushi Nakazawa||4 stars|
|Jonathan Gold||Los Angeles TImes||The Church Key|
|Tom Sietsema||OC Register||Ways & Means Oyster House||2 stars|
|Devra First||The Boston Globe||Sarma|
|Robert Moss||Charleston City Paper||Five Loaves Cafe|
|Scott Reitz||Dallas Observer||CBD Provisions|
Click here for The Daily Meal's "Top Chefs Review — and Rate — America's Food Critics."
Haley Willard is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @haleywillrd.