Critic Roundup: Nashville's Husk Is "More Splendid"

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Every week, The Daily Meal rounds up restaurant reviews across America
Andrea Behrends

At Nashville's Husk, the food is "as good as Southern cooking gets," says restaurant critic Alan Richman.

This week in restaurant news, critic Alan Richman reviews Husk's new location in Nashville, Tenn. While the Charleston, S.C., location was "beyond disappointing" for him, Richman says this one is "more splendid." At the Nashville restaurant, which he notes is on a "curious, out-of-the-way street that calls to mind a more gracious past," the servers are "far more polished" and explain every step of a dish's preparation to customers. Having tried the Manchester Farms Quail, Husk Boudin, Smoky Lady Peas, and Farm Fried Egg, Richman praises the dishes as "as good as Southern cooking gets, wonderfully soft, sensuous, and homey, filled with tastes we don’t come across where I come from." For Richman, Nashville's Husk "demonstrated sophistication I didn’t see in Charleston."

In Los Angeles, Terroni appears "as if the owners were checking the conventions of a postmodern Italian restaurant off a standard list," says critic Jonathan Gold. "A movie screen that day in, day out shows nothing but Fellini's La Dolce Vita? Check. Taped Italian-language lessons in the bathrooms? Check. Tables numbered in Italian, a wall of hanging meats, and a chandelier that looks as if it were purchased at the estate sale of a Tuscan castle? It goes without saying."

In New York, critic Ryan Sutton highlights the pigs-in-a-blanket at Alder. He says: "The sausages are porky, Lap Cheong-style morsels wrapped in compressed hot dog rolls and topped with sinus-clearing mustard. The flavor takes us back to the Cantonese-American carry-out joints that nourished us before we got obsessed with micro-regional Chinese cuisine."

 

Restaurant Critic Roundup: 10/23/2013

Critic Publication Restaurant Rating
Gael Greene Insatiable Critic Toro  
Alan Richman GQ Husk 3 stars
Ryan Sutton Bloomberg Alder 2.5 stars
Pete Wells New York Times Le Restaurant 2 stars
Tom Sietsema Washington Post Mix Bar and Grille  
Devra First The Boston Globe Ribelle  
Jonathan Gold Los Angeles Times Terroni  
William Porter The Denver Post Vine Street Pub & Brewery 2 stars
Stan Sagner NY Daily News Estrellita Poblana III  
Michael Bauer San Francisco Chronicle Pesce 2.5 stars
Scott Reitz Dallas Observer Village Kitchen  

Click here for The Daily Meal's "Top Chefs Review — and Rate — America's Food Critics."

 

Haley Willard is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @haleywillrd

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