The New York Post Rips Into the Park Hyatt’s New Restaurant

The Park Hyatt’s Back Room at One57 “will make foodies weep in anguish,” says The New York Post’s restaurant critic
The New York Post Rips Into the Park Hyatt’s New Restaurant
Facebook/The Back Room at One57

“The saddest dead flesh in captivity” didn’t save New York Post critic Steve Cuozzo’s dinner at The Back Room at One57.

New York Post restaurant critic Steve Cuozzo recently visited The Back Room at One57, the newly-opened restaurant at Park Hyatt New York, and things didn’t go well.

Cuozzo makes no bones about it: first, there was the food —a salmon amuse-bouche introduced “with great detail, down to its last obscure, pickled micro-component” — which he calls a “ridiculous offering at this ridiculous restaurant.”

Next, the months of “breathless hype” that promised designer staff uniforms, a three-star chef, and the reputable Hyatt itself—all of which should have meant that the restaurant “will, at the very least, not be completely terrible.” That three-star chef, Sam Hazen, formerly of Veritas, quit weeks before the restaurant opened (not days after, as Cuozzo writes), citing a grievously inadequate kitchen.

Sebastien Archambault from the Blue Duck Tavern in D.C. was hired to take over, and served a pared down version of Hazen’s menu. The transition has been difficult, if Cuozzo’s word is to be trusted.

There are a few dishes he finds tolerable at best, but the lobster salad is described as “a Thermidorish cream bath with a few leaves scrunched into a coffee cup.”

A veal chop is identified as “the saddest dead flesh in captivity,” and Cuozzo recommends that “the gazillionaires upstairs” find dinner elsewhere.

For the latest food and drink updates, visit our Food News page.

Karen Lo is an associate editor at The Daily Meal. Follow her on Twitter @appleplexy.  

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