Farm-Raised Salmon: New And Improved

Yasmin Fahr|Jan. 20, 2012 5:23 pm EST

Farm-raised fish has gotten a bad rap, and not entirely without reason. Water pollution, the spread of disease and parasites, negative impact on both wild salmon and forage fish, and other issues have made aquaculture a dirty word to many environmentalists.

It doesn't have to be, according to a relatively new company called Verlasso, which raises fish in the cold, clear waters of Chilean Patagonia. Verlasso, says Scott Nichols, one of its six directors, strives to be "the best salmon farmers on the market."

As another Verlasso director, the appropriately named Allyson Fish, explains, healthy protein sources are becoming more and more difficult to find, while demand for them increases, and responsible aquaculture can help satisfy the need. Nichols has worked on biodiversity projects in Africa and South America and Fish is a former Fellow of the Environmental Defense Fund, so both realized the necessity of creating a better salmon product without damaging the environment. They call their approach "harmonious evolution" — a term they prefer to "sustainable," which they think has been overused.

One of Verlasso's tactics is reducing reliance on herring, mackerel, and other feeder fish by 75 percent without sacrificing the omega-3 oil content of their salmon. As Fish explains it, like us, salmon get omega-3's from what they eat — it's found in the fish oil of smaller fish. Verlasso has been able to create a food based on an algae-based yeast that provides their salmon with all of necessary protein, oil, and nutrients they need, while cutting down on their reliance on feeder fish. Because of this, Verlasso is able to provide a consistently high level of omega-3's in their salmon, as compared to other farm-raised fish or wild salmon (which see fluctuations in their levels depending on their diet).

video on their site.

The most important part of this all that we haven't touched on yet is the taste. It may be all well and good for the environment and be a healthy product, but if it doesn't taste good, then it's really of no help to anyone. Lucky for them and us, the salmon tastes fantastic.

Our editorial team was lucky enough to sample Verlasso's salmon to create the delicious recipes below and we all noticed the same thing: the salmon was less fatty and oily than other farm-raised salmon, but had an incredibly clean mouthfeel and lightness to it. Now sold on Fresh Direct and in Portland, Ore., Verlasso is making its way around the country and into our kitchens.

Choosing to purchase fish responsibly at home is not a new concept, but it is a growing one. We realize that making the right choice can seem difficult, so make sure to check out resources like our Sustainable Seafood Guide and other sites like the Monterey Bay Aquarium, as well as the Environmental Defense Fund.

And when you do make your salmon choice, we hope you decide to try one of our recipes below.

Click here to see What Is... Salmon?

Pan-Seared Salmon with Green Curry Sauce