MiamiEats: Follow THE FEDERAL
May 20, 2013
|Lamb Burger & Duck Egg|
Well slap me silly and call me Susan. Something tells me we're not in Brooklyn anymore. But The Federal Food Drink & Provisions in Miami convinces me otherwise. It is plucked straight out of the farm-to-table, rustic-chic, upscale casual, blue-jean clad-server, sharing style small plates served as they're ready in no particular order woodwork of bourgeois-bohemian dining halls of today. My perhaps beleaguered tone shan't detract from my utter enjoyment of such establishments - when they're done correctly, as this one is.
|Courtesy of The Federal|
There's no denying, the place's got charm, with saloon barn wood, vintage-y country wallpaper, and brown paper table runners - even a spacious front patio with the requisite picnic table for communal dining. But more importantly, the food is spectacularly innovative yet familiar, created by skilled chef Cesar Zapata. And just when you think this Southern-slanted menu is getting all sophisticated on you with crab home fries and crispy pork belly, they throw in a cup of creamy grits or a buttery gran'ma biscuit. Just another trick of the trade to keep it "down home" and upscale. But I don't hate it, as long as my stomach is satisfied. And boy, was it.
On this particular Sunday brunch (which offers $16 bottomless mimosas) two flaky fluffy buttery biscuits segued to a Jar-O-Duck, a most delightful shredded pate, which quacked harmoniously with charred marshmallow fluff and candied sweet potato slices on crunchy chunks of bread. The best of the spread, hands down.
The Charred Octopus was cooked well but its modest slivers were easily drowned in the red salsa it swam in, though the fried dough triangle "tortilla" chips (more like crispy wontons) were ultimately satisfying with every crispy, airy crunch.
Charred Octopus & Chips
The jarred S'more dessert needs a ratio tweak, being too heavy on the chocoalte pudding and too light on the graham cracker crumbles and marshmallow to balance its richness. But you can certainly count on a double espresso to perk you up with a powerful, deft swig. (God, I'm a sucker for good coffee.)
How The Federal supper fares, I have yet to uncover. But if it's under Zapata's governance, I am a willing follower. (Plus, Crawdaddy Tuesdays are kind of calling my name.)
5132 Biscayne Blvd
Miami, FL 33137
*All photos by Rebecca Kritzer unless otherwise noted