French Critic: Michelin Guide Has ‘Lost the Plot’

French food critic Gilles Pudlowski has doesn't think much of today's Michelin guide
French Critic: Michelin Guide Has ‘Lost the Plot’
Facebook/Michelin Guides
Without the direction of French critics, the Michelin guide has lost its authority, says a French critic.

Prominent French food critic Gilles Pudlowski has accused the Michelin guide of losing its touch and the ability to uphold “undisputed jurisdiction,” according to The Guardian. The critic writes a regular column in the weekly news magazine Le Point — which recently leaked the 2014 Michelin results.

In his column, Pudlowski criticized the newest edition of “bizarre promotions” that unduly favored new, young chefs over the “unchallengeable chefs” who deserved recognition. In particular, Pudlowski noted that the three-star rating given to chef Arnaud Lallement of L'Assiette Champenoise in Reims was more deserved by chef Philippe Mille of the same town's Les Crayères. The guide has also failed to sanction chefs properly by removing stars, Pudlowski said.

Finally, Pudlowski complained that the Michelin guide’s current leadership was not ideal. The direction of Michael Ellis, an American, and Julian Casper, a German, has caused the guide to “lose its compass,” Pudlowski wrote in his column. The real solution, Pudlowski complained to The Guardian, was simple: “Can’t they find any French people to run this guide?” 

The Michelin Guide is expected to be released officially on Feb. 24. 

Karen Lo is an associate editor at The Daily Meal. Follow her on Twitter @appleplexy.

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