Peruvian Cuisine Takes On Downtown LA
Chef Ricardo Zarate has opened Rosaliné on Melrose Avenue. Located in the old Comme Ca space, the new restaurant is long and narrow, with a main bar and ceviche area in the front room, intimate two- and four-top tables in the second room, and a beautiful atrium dining area at the back.
Skylights and a back open ceiling bring in tons of light. Rustic flooring, colorful tiles and pendant lighting add life to the space.
The Peruvian food is influenced by Southern California produce. The traditional Josper oven infuses dishes with smoky earthy flavors, and the ceviche bar offers daily fresh local fish.
The menu is split into small plates, family-style dishes, main dishes, and desserts. Appetizer highlights include spicy olives, eggplant puree and corn with turmeric flatbread; popped kiwicha, fried paiche and yuzu aioli sauce; crispy potatoes with salted cod; beef heart skewers with feta cheese; and an eggplant terrine with potato mousse
Family-style dishes include a Peruvian paella with sausage, bagoong and prawns; a grilled branzino with black mint sauce and a bean puree; and a dry-aged wood-grilled ribeye with sesame huacatay sauce. Seafood items include sea urchin, scallops, prawns and clams with rice; black mussels and fish stew in a chili lime broth and blue prawns with yuzu kosho and charred lime. Great vegetarian dishes include a lima bean, avocado, and tomato salad; a roasted beet and goat cheese quinoa salad; and beets three ways with burrata, ricotta, and candied pecans. Heartier dishes include a sautéed filet with roasted tomatoes and a sunny side egg; organic chicken with cilantro beer rice; and pork ossobuco in a banana leaf.
Peruvian-inspired drinks are the highlights of the cocktail menu. Choose from a Mean Monsoon with gin, fino sherry, blood orange, and lemon; the Chilcano with vodka, ginger kombucha, Peruvian aperitif; Jab to the Jaw with cactus pear, strawberry brandy, orgeat, and Chinese five spice; and P.C.C. with quebranta pisco, ramazzotti, Mexican coke, jarabe de ciruela, and lime.
Desserts are equally impressive with Pie de Cirula, a sour plum crostata with purple corn spread and fermented umeboshi plums served with chancaca ice cream and Chancay con Leche, a Peruvian cake with goat's milk manjar blanco, coconut milk and maracuya guava frozen yogurt.
Those not familiar with Peruvian cuisine will find this to the perfect spot to learn.