Kitsune Review: Bread Just Short of Life-Changing, Plus Lots More to Love

Chicago Tribune's Phil Vettel visits a new Japanese restaurant
Kitsune

Terrence Antonio James/Chicago Tribune

The okonomiyaki, a savory pancake, is topped with leek, bok choy, savoy cabbage, pickled ginger, katsuobushi and crisscrossing stripes of Kewpie mayo and a barbecuelike okonomiyaki sauce.

Kitsune is not the next big Japanese thing. At 24 seats, including those along the bar, Kitsune is not about to be the next big anything.

This latest effort from Iliana Regan (Elizabeth) is, like every other concept she's opened, intimate, highly personal and as adorably precious as the cartoon-y figurines she employs as decoration.

Regan, from her work at Elizabeth and the short-lived Bunny the microbakery, (which ended prematurely because of a partnership dispute), has a well-earned reputation as a forager par excellence, with an appreciation for Midwest produce that borders on the devotional. Kitsune, unsurprisingly, applies Regan's well-established local ethos to her fascination with Japanese flavors.

Authenticity is not the goal.

Find out why at the Chicago Tribune.

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