If any restaurant in downtown Dallas has first claim to being in a beau site, it’s Savor Gastropub. Ensconced in the glass box on the north side of Klyde Warren Park, patrons enjoy a vista overlooking the park green space, the performance stage, and onward to the Dallas Museum of Art. It is a peaceful way to enjoy a meal, especially on a summer evening as the sun retreats. During a recent media event, there were Frisbee players and strollers on the grass, a yoga class on the stage (that, I admit, made me feel a little guilty), and dog walkers by the dog park.
The food is in harmony with this semi-pastoral scene. Chef John Coleman (assisted by Joe Scigliano) produces hearty New American fare that encompasses many established favorites such as deviled eggs, Brussels sprouts, and calamari, but also makes nods to trends like ahi tuna poke.
My favorites included the Dungeness crab salad that mixed a generous portion of shredded crab meat tossed with avocado, citrus, and watercress all dressed with a wine-friendly tangerine vinaigrette. A glass of Hall Sauvignon Blanc was a bright and fruity complement. Beer mavens may wish to check out Fort Worth’s Wild Acre Brewing Company’s Moonlight Shine wheat ale.
My companion is addicted to fried calamari. Worse still, despite my disdain, I can’t keep my hands from stealing bits of it. Savor’s pairing of calamari with shrimp makes it all the more difficult to control these urges. A distraction of an ahi tuna poke, presented in its now-obligatory cylindrical tower, with ample chopped avocado, helped restrain me for a while.
For mains, the crispy potato gnocchi is a dream, every bit as good as the rendition at FT33. Savor adds sesame seeds for highlight flavor, brown butter for moisture and sweetness, and Swiss chard for a bitter accent. A Saintsbury Pinot Noir was a good beverage match. The chili-braised short rib is as fork tender as one could wish, with a rich umami flavor, accented by the chiles, contrasting with the sweet grain flavor of wild mushroom polenta. Spellbound Petite Sirah from Sonoma is the full-bodied red to pair with this.
To end, the Trail Mix Crunch is a shareable dish in which Nutella fried pies are plated alongside gianduja ice cream and trail mix crunch. Citrus Composition offers citrus curd, yogurt crémeux, olive oil citrus cake, pistachio tuile and blood orange sorbet. It is light, fruity, and well suited to summer.