Sushi Stars On Broadway

I accepted the invitation to dine at Sushi Seki Times Square because of my admiration for the original Upper East Side outpost. {Disclosure: The meal that is the subject of this review was provided at no cost to me.} I was curious to see and sample Chef Seki's work in the midst of Broadway's famed "Restaurant Row", that entire West 46th block in NYC dominated by eating establishments. That locale itself presents an interesting contradiction and unique challenge. On the one hand, there's already a large potential audience concentrated in the area. Yet on the other, the competition to attract diners is fierce. Consider also that many of the street's venerable institutions, such as Barbetta (1906), Frankie & Johnnie's (1926) and "newcomer" Joe Allen (1965), have been catering to loyal customers for decades.  

To be successful in that competitive environment, a restaurant must offer a compelling reason to choose it. Seki has a few. It occupies a huge bi-level space, whose downstairs sushi bar precedes a dining room – the Kappo Room – that has its own counter seating set directly in front of an open kitchen. Upstairs reveals a series of tatami rooms, where small groups are comfortably seated shoeless on the floor in their own private cocoon, an ideal venue for a ladies or gentlemen's night out type of occasion. Beyond those is situated yet another dining room with its own sushi bar. As many options as there are for seating, so too are there many ways to tackle the various menus.

My meal started with sushi at the downstairs sushi bar. Not surprisingly, the fish was flawlessly fresh and the sushi rice perfectly on point. In addition to the more traditional Nigiri offerings came a piece of King Salmon with roasted tomato that delighted even a devout purist like myself. The cocktail menu was inventive too, plus there's also a mini-omakase menu ["chefs selection"] featuring a combination of sushi and hand rolls together with soba or udon noodles, offered for $55. So if you're  headed to a show and in the mood for a great drink with superior sushi, Seki would be a smart pre-theater call.

Then there is the full on menu that can be ordered a la carte or as a complete tasting, with or without a sake pairing. This is where things get really interesting. The seven-course tasting menu is an exemplary progression ranging from seasonal starters to vegetables, sashimi, tempura, filet mignon and dessert. This is the meal to appreciate when everyone else is already seated inside a neighboring theater. And if you're feeling flush enough to treat yourself like a Broadway star, splurge on the extraordinary sake pairing. By the way, if you think navigating a wine list is a challenge, imagine one entirely in Japanese characters. Well, here's your chance to experience sake at the highest level in the hands of experts.

The tasting menu begins with three seasonal surprises, such as slow poached octopus and a luscious Lotus Root, shrimp and ikura salad, served with a classic Junmai Ginjo from Hiroshima. The warm vegetable course follows, paired with a rich, aged, unpasteurized sake. Ethereal tuna and red snapper sashimi came next with a three-year aged Junmai Ginjo (Hakkaisan  Yukimuro), a sake so delicious and smooth that it could be served at any dinner in lieu of a bottle of white wine.

The fourth course is agemono, meaning that you'll be having something fried, accompanied by a cedar-brewed Junmai Ginjo. The sliced filet mignon with garlic miso that followed called for a bold sake, in this case an eight-year old honey-scented Hanahato Koshu, with a nose similar to a sherry or port. The sixth course is a savory seasonal rice, soup and side dish featuring heavenly barbecued eel and shiiitake mushroom that arrived with the first and only sake served warm, a Sohomare Tokubetsu with a slight hint of smoke. Finally, a Yuzu Panna Cotta (or Honey Creme Brulee, if you prefer) is partnered with a delightful sparkling Harushika "Tokemiki", a fruity, slightly sweet, low alcohol sake that is ideal with desserts.

Sushi Seki Times Square is an impressive operation that's easy to recommend. Whether pre, during, or even after theater, diners can expect to be treated to a variety of outstanding Japanese food and serious sake, served up with gracious hospitality by Chef Seki and his team of professionals. That's a play I'd gladly see again.