A Road Trip Around Ireland's Coastal Causeway Route
Ireland is a trendy spot to go to these days. There's incredible scenery in the west, Game of Thrones fans find sites all over and Lonely Planet named Northern Ireland their No. 1 place to visit in 2018.
Ireland is home to a number of scenic road trips but one of the most breathtaking you can do is the Coastal Causeway Route in the north. Drive along the coast from Derry to Belfast and with the epic cliffs, blue waters and endless waves crashing into the rocks, you'll have a hard time keeping your eyes on the road.
We did the drive of the Coastal Causeway Route and if you're en route, here's where to eat, play and stay along the way.
Londonderry
Derry – or Londonderry, depending on how you look at things – in Northern Ireland is the start of the Coast Causeway Route. It's known as the Walled City and...
Walled City Tour
One of the signature items of Derry is the wall, which is still mostly intact and worth touring. Built to withstand cannon balls, the fortification is as thick as 35 feet in some places. You are free to walk it yourself and there are some great views of the city from above. Alternately, City Walking Tours offers informative one-hour outings, which will introduce you to the history of the city and cover some fun facts you might otherwise miss.
Primrose
The culinary scene in Northern Ireland is noticeably shifting and Primrose is evidence of that. A traditional Irish dish has a big protein (usually meat), potatoes in some form (boiled, mashed or chips) and the portions are large. Places like Primrose moving the scene more into the modern where the focus is on flavors, ingredients and preparation more so than just quantity.
The café offers fresh pastries and sandwiches, which are all made inhouse. They also send a number of local artisanal products, which you can take home.
While the café is casual. the restaurants offers a more immersive experience. Recommended is the chicken liver pate and the spiced heritage carrot-avocado-orange salad.
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Pyke & Pomme
Pyke & Pomme is a fun food truck – or shipping container – parked right up on the shore or the NAME river. Although Irish cuisine sometimes has a habit of being very meat and potatoes, Pyke & Pomme is a trendy spot that's delivering modern flavors. The small menu is frequently changing but try the wagyu burger if you like pleasantly moist meats and you can't go wrong with the tacos, which all offer bold bites.
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Bishop's Gate Hotel
The ideal location to stay in Derry is close to the waterfront and the wall, which are likely the two areas where you'll spend the most time. The Bishop's Gate Hotel is located right by the Bishop's Gate entrance to the wall and is about a five-minute walk to the Peace Bridge. While the city itself is old, the Bishop's Gate Hotel is quite modern and chic inside. It's a sleek accommodation to rest in while discovering the history of Derry.
Portstewart
Portstewart is a small town in the county of Londonderry. It's a good place to get up close and personal with the water whether it's walking the boardwalk or hanging out on the beach.
Surfing
One of the best places to surf in Northern Ireland is the West Strand beach in Portrush. Although the grey weather and (often) brisk conditions means you'll never mistake this for Hawaii's shores, but the waves are steady, which is what you need for a good surf. Bring a board and have a go of it yourself if you're experienced or if you would like to learn the ropes, Alive Surf School is always at hand. Whether you're looking for private or group lessons, they'll show you the waves.
Harry's Shack
There's no question that Harry's Shack is one of the main attractions in the area. It's a shack on a beach where you'll encounter top-notch seafood. Service can be a tad slow – especially when the locals crowd in – but there is a good selection of well-executed fish. That includes everything from the basic fish and chips, which was crisp and non-greasy, to the wide variety of unique options like Whole Brill, Whitebait and Greencastle Prawn Tails.
Saltwater House
Saltwater House is a bed and breakfast that embodies cozy. Debbie's (owner) home has been in the family for generations and has now been converted into a lovely accommodation. The interior design feels like a flat Martha Stewart would be impressed with: elegant, comfy and relaxed. The 40's jazz that eases out in the common room suggests that this is an ideal place to rest and recharge.
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Ballycastle
Ballycastle is a small town in Country Antrim. If you're checking out the Dark Hedges or the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge – as so many people do – this is a good place to stop before or after to get a bite to eat.
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge was first erected by fishermen over 350 years ago as they needed an easy pathway from the mainland to the island 20 meters away. Nowadays, it's a popular tourist attraction as visitors want to walk across the shaky bridge while looking 30 meters down to the rocks and water.
The adrenaline rush isn't nearly as intense as it sounds but the real attraction is the grand scenery both on the walk to the bridge and from the passage itself.
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Ursa Minor
Ursa Minor is the creation of Dara O'hArtghaile, who previously had worked in coffee shops. In the evenings after work, he'd teach himself how to make sourdough bread and after a year of practice, he became so good at it that his friends and other locals couldn't get enough. At that point, he ran a kickstarter that garnered so much support that he was able to open up a coffee shop and a bakehouse. The demand for his incredible sourdough bread has only blossomed from there as he now has an entire staff helping him bake around the clock.
Pop in for a loaf or sit and have a slice or two. The café has a breakfast and lunch menu offering different ways to try the thick-cut sourdough from sandwiches, to as a side with soup to simply with butter and jam. For purists, the latter is recommended.
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Ice Cream
What's understood in Ballycastle is that honeycomb ice cream is one of the must-eats but what's open for debate is where to go. There are those who stay true to Morelli's and their famous sundaes, which have been carefully crafted since 1911. Then there is Maud's, which has a world of flavors to wonder about. You can't go wrong with a sundae at Morelli's but if you're going to Maud's, the signature item is the Poor Bear, which is smooth vanilla laced with honeycomb nuggets.
The Dark Hedges
Whether you're a Game of Thrones fan or simply love the oddities of nature, the Dark Hedges is a must-see. Walking what feels like a tree-covered tunnel – especially at dusk – gives you an eerie medieval feeling that you'll mostly only encounter in movies.
The Dark Hedges is what's known as the King's Road in Game of Thrones, which can be seen in the first episode of Season 2 as Jaime Lannister rides through.
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Giant's Causeway
The Giant's Causeway is one of Northern Ireland's most visited attractions. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is a natural wonder where roughly 40,000 basalt columns remain as a result of a volcanic eruption. It's a site to behold as these mostly hexagonal columns range from high cliffs all the way down to below sea level. When you visit, you get to chance walk around them like stepping stones as the waves crash by your feet.
Mini Maegden
Emma and Jo are two teachers who took a risk. Tired of the day-to-day life, they moved back to Northern Ireland and decided to open up a grilled cheese caravan (food truck) right next to one of the north's biggest attractions: the Giant's Causeway. Now the two ladies have a successful business going where tourists and locals lineup to get a bite of their crusty, gooey grilled cheese creations. Don't expect to see the basic American or orange cheddar grilled cheese; these ladies have delicious recipes ranging from the macaroni and cheese, to the pulled beef to the aged cheddar-pesto-walnut. To boot, sweet tooths will appreciate the ice cream cookie sandwiches while the savory folks will be drawn to their homemade pickles.
If you're visiting the Giant's Causeway, stop in to get some comfort food for the soul.
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Belfast
Belfast is internationally known as the launch point of the Titanic. While the history of that story is a captivating enough reason to visit, the bustling culinary scene is the cherry on top. Two restaurants in Belfast have earned a Michelin star and a few others might start to get that type of recognition in the coming years.
Titanic Museum/Drawing Room
The Titanic Museum is one of must-sees of Belfast. Of course, Belfast is famous not only for being the place where the Titanic was built, it's also the place it set sail. The museum takes you through levels of moods starting with the excitement of construction and what it meant to the local economy, all the way through the tragic and somber ending.
After you spend some time at the museum, head over to the Titanic Hotel next door for a cup of tea. You can sip a warm drink and enjoy a scone in the room where the Titanic plans were originally drawn.
Muddler's Club
Belfast's culinary scene has bloomed in recent years as restaurants like Ox and Eipic have Michelin stars while the chefs that cut their teeth at those places have now branched off to also open up high-end spots. One of those chefs is Gareth McCaughey, who worked as a sous chef at Ox. He opened Muddler's Club, which has a dark, underground vibe to it. Located down an alley, you kind of have to know about it to find the location, and that's how they want it.
Inside is dimly lit where the brightest light comes from the window to the kitchen. The chefs work openly for the hungry audience to see, tireless perfecting dishes with tweezers and tongs.
The menu is short – about four options per course – but there aren't any wrong choices. It's also one of the better places in the city to get a cocktail as beer is still typically the drink of choice in most spots.
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Noble
Similar to Muddler's Club, Noble is also a couple of young chefs on the rise. The kitchen is run by Pearson Morris, who previously worked at Deane's on Queen when it had a Michelin star, while the front-of-house is more in the realm of partner Saul McConnell. The dishes are refined but often an ode to traditional Irish tastes; you'll see plenty of meat and potatoes. However, the steaks are salt aged between 45-70 days and the chips are coated in beef drippings, so there's a modern twist. The cured salmon salad was my favorite selection.
Almost everything they use is local and organic, which really shines through in the quality of the flavors.
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Dublin
While there are many beautiful areas in the country, Dublin is the heartbeat of Ireland. Walk through downtown and you'll get a feel for just how musical of a city it is. You'll hear songs pouring out of the pubs with buskers singing in the streets in between.
Most trips to Ireland start in Dublin, so if you're staying in town before starting your road trip, here are a couple of recommendations.
Fitzwilliam Hotel
The Fitzwilliam Hotel is an upscale, classy accommodation located right in the city centre. The location is ideal as you're right on St. Stephen's Green and about a 10-minute walk from Dublin Castle and Trinity College.
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Fade Street Social
You can find a lot of classical pub experiences in the city centre but if you're looking for something a little trendier, Fade Street Social is a good option. The chef behind it is Dylan McGrath, who previously earned a Michelin star at Mint. It's often full on weekends, so make sure you book ahead if you're planning on dining at the restaurant.
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Travel expenses for this article were paid for by Tourism Northern Ireland.