A Burger, a Cubano, and NYC's Most Underrated Hangover Cure
The brunch menu at Julian Medina’s Yerba Buena Perry presents you with that problem-you-want-to-have situation of too many good-sounding dishes to chose from.
On it you’ll find brunch staples tweaked with Latin flavors — Cachapa Benedict with Serrano Ham over a Sweet Corn Cake, French Toast with Manchego Dulce de Leche. But, there are also familiar classics like Churros, Huevos Rancheros, and a Cuban Sandwich. The solution? Arrive hungry and over-order.
The New Mexican-born Green Chile Cheeseburger has a shot at joining the City’s regional burger lexicon. Buzz about the one at Schnipper’s certainly hinted at that. At Yerba Buena Perry you get a great burger — thick and juicy on a buttery bun — just not necessarily a great green chile cheeseburger. The slathering of green chile sofrito has a mild roasted pepperiness and heat but is too restrained.
Traditionalists will no doubt cry, “Sacrilege!” over the use of brie in a Cubano. That’s fine, more sandwich for you. The cheese is not as out of place as you might expect. It adds the gooey creaminess you need in a sandwich that’s served on this kind of crusty bread. There’s a good amount of salt too, from the combination of Serrano ham and small shreds of BBQ suckling pig. If anything, you want just a little more sour brine and crunch in the pickle.
As great as well-executed eggs Benedict can be, poached eggs find a better home in the Chupe de Mariscos. This smokey, hard-to-stop-going-back-for-more soup could easily be the sleeper favorite on the menu. Tender shrimp, calamari, and flaky black cod soak up the wonderfully savory broth — it’s like a Latin take on bouillabaisse. Yolk from the poached egg gives it a subtle richness, you can see how this dish would make a great hangover cure.