January 26, 2012
Blood Pappardelle with Testa
At Incanto in San Francisco, you order offal as though you were on a mission to do so. Heart tartare? Check. Trotter cake? Check. Spaghettini with cured tuna heart and egg yolk? Please. Oxtail sweetbreads with rutabaga? Another helping. You can't go wrong at Chris Cosentino's Noe Valley restaurant. Heart tartare is a checklist item, but the blood pappardelle with testa, well... thick strips of pasta, salted slices of testa with spongy give — it's difficult to save room for anything else. And for all these reasons, this dish made my list of most memorable meals of 2011.