Baohaus' Eddie Huang on Food Critics and Subcultures
New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton was promoted to national editor yesterday, with Sifton announcing it via Twitter.
The rest of the food world responded accordingly: Some chefs were all, “Sam who?” and others were civil and congratulatory. The best reaction, however, has to be chef Eddie Huang’s profanity-filled 2,000-word love letter to the Sifton era (even after a harsh review).
“Sifton is the first to really integrate and rep for youth culture in the Dining section,” Huang writes. “Old people just keep sh*t copacetic. For the first time in a while, food is holding its own in the Style section and kids are paying attention.”
Of course, Huang gives pointers to the next critic, notably number three: “Don't be a fan of chefs. We're your marks. Don't get it twisted.” And number seven: “Just to follow up on that, the next critic needs to be the type of dude who eats at Obama Fried Chicken. Absolutely necessary.”
Then Huang signs off with a sweet note from his mum: “Lastly, Sam... Mom wanted me to say: 'Gong Xi Fa Cai' Congrats homie, the kids will miss you. But on a positive note, does he have to be anonymous now? Can he come get lifted at Baohaus 2? LET ME FIND OUT.”
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