New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton was promoted to national editor yesterday, with Sifton announcing it via Twitter.
The rest of the food world responded accordingly: Some chefs were all, “Sam who?” and others were civil and congratulatory. The best reaction, however, has to be chef Eddie Huang’s profanity-filled 2,000-word love letter to the Sifton era (even after a harsh review).
“Sifton is the first to really integrate and rep for youth culture in the Dining section,” Huang writes. “Old people just keep sh*t copacetic. For the first time in a while, food is holding its own in the Style section and kids are paying attention.”
Of course, Huang gives pointers to the next critic, notably number three: “Don't be a fan of chefs. We're your marks. Don't get it twisted.” And number seven: “Just to follow up on that, the next critic needs to be the type of dude who eats at Obama Fried Chicken. Absolutely necessary.”
Then Huang signs off with a sweet note from his mum: “Lastly, Sam... Mom wanted me to say: 'Gong Xi Fa Cai' Congrats homie, the kids will miss you. But on a positive note, does he have to be anonymous now? Can he come get lifted at Baohaus 2? LET ME FIND OUT.”
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