An American Bistro Where Brunch Comes with an Imagination
Sunday brunch isn’t really an original concept, especially not in New York City. Regardless, it's a meal that gets people together at the tail end of a busy weekend for some indecisive (breakfast or lunch?) eating; often, much needed drinking; and good times. So was the story of a typical double date at Lexington Brass, a new American bistro at the spanking-new Hyatt 48 Lex.
From the group that brought New Yorkers venues like the old-school steak joint Abe & Arthur’s and the newly opened seafood spot Catch, EMM remains firm in their grasp on classic American fare with Lexington Brass. They kept things a bit rustic in the décor department and chose an ideal location in East Midtown for suit-types to meet for early breakfasts and power lunches.
As it was a weekend, we decided on a relaxed, power-free meal and left the suits at home. Our foursome has a strong stance on not ordering any of the same dishes, but we had to cave in this one instance. The jelly-doughnut pancakes went to two of us, who couldn’t settle on anything else that sounded equally as enticing. A staple cheeseburger with truffle fries, a mushroom omelette, and a bakery basket to share rounded out the rest of our order, as well some bellini’s, bloody marys, and on-tap kombucha.
It turned out that the go-to items were the best choice. The burger — juicy and topped with thick sliced bacon and a mound of melted Cheddar, was a huge hit. The omelette, another easy decision —stuffed with porcini mushrooms and gruyère — was flavor-packed alongside peppered home fries. The jelly-doughnut pancakes, however, though high in inspiration were too ambitious, with a jam-overloaded center that made them soggy and far too sweet. The bakery basket scored as a starter, with enough flaky croissants, warmed cranberry muffins, and homemade jam to go around. As for the truffle fries, the rule applies — there’s really no going wrong when there’s truffle involved.
We decided, unanimously, that the minor fluke that was the jelly-doughnut pancakes was merely a result of the restaurant’s three week-old kitchen and we'll surely give them another try in due time. Otherwise, the suits can keep their weekday power-lunches and we’ll take brunch at the new-but-good-Lexington Brass.