The NYC Deli Specialty To Try If You Love Bagels And Lox

A freshly baked bagel (or beigel?) with a schmear of cream cheese and lox is a match made in heaven. Ask your deli server to scatter over some capers, dill, and slivers of red onion, and you'll be transported to textural nirvana. The only problem? Ordering the same special every day can give you a case of taste fatigue. If you've overexposed your taste buds to bagels stuffed with lox but enjoy the flavor of fish, it's time to try another NYC deli specialty: the whitefish salad. The delicious dish is made by combining freshwater whitefish with a dollop of mayonnaise and seasonings. Unlike lox, which is cured in a salt brine, the whitefish is brined, dried, and hot smoked, imparting it with a woody taste that's more similar to smoked salmon. Whitefish is naturally oily, lending it a buttery texture, particularly when whipped into a rich mayo. This quality also helps it to absorb smoke, giving it a satisfying savory vibe. The creamy texture of whitefish salad makes it perfect to spread on a dense and chewy bagel.

Invented by members of the Ashkenazi Jewish community who immigrated to the U.S., the whitefish salad was their yummy attempt at recreating the flavors of traditional Eastern European dishes that were made with local freshwater fish. It has since become a popular dish served at Jewish delis and stores, particularly in New York, where 1.4 million of the population identified as Jewish in 2023. 

Posters on Reddit devoted to finding the best whitefish salad bagel in NYC recommend Sable's, Shelsky's, and Barney Greengrass as suitable haunts. One commenter said, "This could turn into a debate – everyone has their favorites. Russ & daughters is great for the fish but not for the bagels. I'd recommend Kossar's, as the closest to Russ, especially for bialies. For the combo I'd recommend Ess-a-bagel. Also Brooklyn Bagel." However, another poster said, "Go to Zabars, get a tub of their whitefish salad and DIY bagel. The best." Zabar's smoked whitefish dip, priced at just under $11 for an 8 ounce tub, is made with lightly smoked whitefish, mayonnaise, and secret spices. It also unusually contains chopped eggs, which give it a heartier texture.

Much like a traditional tuna salad, whitefish salad is high in protein due to its main fishy ingredient. Whitefish, like tilapia, halibut, and grouper, also have a mild flavor, which often appeals to those who don't enjoy the robust character of herrings, anchovies, and sardines. Some of the mayo in whitefish salad can be subbed for sour cream to make it slightly lighter and tangier. Plus, it can contain crunchy extras, such as chopped celery or onion, or be brightened up with a spritz of lemon juice.