It was a tragedy when chef Joaquin Baca’s Brooklyn Star, a very promising restaurant, suffered a damaging fire. But the Star found another great spot, and when the Brooklyn Star space reopened as a new concept, it did so with what has become one of Brooklyn’s, one of New York City’s, and one of the country’s great slices. Seriously. In a city known for great slices, one where nostalgia can’t hide the fact that the state of the slice isn’t what it used to be, one where dollar-slices have perverted what was once an art form, this joint venture between Brooklyn Star and Bushwick pizza paradise Roberta’s reverses the tide. Pizza man Frank Pinello, a Culinary Institute of America graduate with proper bona fide slide experience, puts out super-thin crispy slices, the kinds that fire off synapses that at least make you believe this is how it always was everywhere. The white pizza is a great move, but so is the grandma slice, and so is the plain slice. It’s just out of range of bar-pie thin, with an almost equal ratio of tangy sauce and cheese — a slice that folded in a paper plate, the way it’s supposed to be done, is the perfect New York en route meal, you know, the way it always was done before the average New York slice tasted like cardboard. Thank you, Frank.