How Do Leading Chefs Feel About GMOs?

Floyd Cardoz, Frank Stitt, Cesare Casella, and others weigh in

"The whole aspect of suing farmers [for inadvertently growing GMO seed] is totally against what I believe,'' Paowalla's Floyd Cardoz told us.

This is one in a series of stories; visit The Daily Meal Special Report: GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisms) for more.

There are many different types of genetically modified foods out there, serving different purposes. For example, scientists have been able to engineer a variety of rice (called ‘golden rice’) that contains additional nutrients apologists say are vital for the health of the developing nations that depend on it. At the same time, companies are altering the genetic structure of crops like corn to be resistant to certain diseases, to increase yield, extend the season, and expand where it can be grown. Genetically modified protein is also entering the conversation, with both Whole Foods and Trader Joe's publicly announcing that they won't sell any GMO fish — so-called "Frankenfish" — even if it's just salmon engineered to grow faster.  

The Non-GMO Project has taken it upon themselves to verify food producers who remain GMO-free, and there are already plenty of products that contain nothing that’s genetically modified, including just about everything sold through Whole Foods' store brand, 365. But surprisingly, only two restaurants — Mighty-O Donuts in Seattle and Nature’s Express in Berkeley, Calif. — have been thus far certified GMO-free (interested parties need to fill out an Enrollment Inquiry Form and go through a lengthy and costly verification process). However, that doesn't mean that chefs around the country don’t care about this issue; in fact, we spoke with seven leading chefs and it’s clear that they all have strong feelings on the matter, even though interestingly enough the vast majority of chefs we asked were unwilling to comment due to the complexity of the issue.

Here are their opinions:

Floyd Cardoz (Paowalla, New York, N.Y.):
''I love science and all it can do to make our lives better and to improve quality of life. That being said, I do disagree with GMOs and what they mean for food. Letting life happen in the fields and in the farms, cross-breeding plants naturally by natural selection, I am all for. I do; however, have a problem with introducing a gene that does not belong or modifying gene the structure of any organism in a lab. In my opinion, most of this is done not to improve the organism so as to make it perpetuate, but purely for financial gain. Copyrighting and patenting food product is also totally wrong. The whole aspect of suing farmers [for inadvertently growing GMO seed] is totally against what I believe.''  

''Directly or indirectly, this leads to an imbalance in the ecosystem, as all organisms are connected and play a specific role in nature. I do not believe in humans changing this balance. We do not know what the long term effects are, and I am not willing to take a chance.''

''I do not like to cook with GMO food products and am all for labeling the products. So what if we lose a natural product due to disease one year? It normally does come back the next year and makes us crave that ingredient even more, making it more special. I do not believe it has any positive environmental effects.''

Cesare Casella (International Culinary Center, New York, N.Y.):
''In Italy, GMOs are something that people worry about a lot and it has been a popular topic for a long time, and not only in kitchens or in the fields. I recently read that over 75 percent of Italians — no matter what industry they work in — are concerned about GMOs. Throughout the European Union — especially in Italy — there are many laws about the proper identification/labeling of GMO products and over the past decade, there has been a very powerful and widespread effort to create GMO-free regions. Italy has been especially successful, and of the 20 regions in Italy, 16 are considered "GM free." Tuscany — where I'm from — was really a leader in these changes.''''For all the hype, GMO technology hasn't been able to improve either of the two most important things about food: flavor and nutrition." — Andrea Reusing

''For the most part in the U.S., it is very difficult to identify what products are GMO free. Only recently has a label/stamp been created, but otherwise it can be very hard to know. Also, I find that the price of GMO-free products — which are not guaranteed to be organic — and organic products can be very similar, so in my own kitchens I typically focus on buying organic.''

''Ultimately, I think it's still a subject with a lot of confusion... but for sure we're going in the right direction.''

Jim Lahey (Sullivan Street Bakery, New York, N.Y.):
''GMO foods represent this colossal disconnect between humanity and nature. I think diners should stay away from them if at all possible. If you don't have to eat them, support or associate with them, that is the best. Only in cases of extreme desperation — i.e., choosing between life and death, but that's not what GMOs are about.''


''With the way the food movement is going now, where selling out can be an attractive option, I don’t know where GMOs will fit into the culinary landscape 10 years from now. Hopefully the issue of global warming will force the issue of biodiversity in our seed stocks so that older varieties or the creation of new ones through hybridization will be a focus to deal with changing conditions.''