The Divine Feminine Myth Behind The Invention Of Sake
We seem to have answers to everything in the information age. No data, history, or explanation is all that far away when you have a smartphone in your hand. Millenia before knowledge was so accessible, myths were used, and pantheons of Gods were created to explain natural and cultural phenomena (via World History Encyclopedia).
Food was of course rarely absent from these myths, and many of the most essential foods were given myths of their own. Encyclopedia reports that across the globe nearly every culture has a foundational myth for food, which was often depicted as a gift from the gods to illustrate its importance. For example, Saveur claims in Southern India the mango seed was believed to be a gift from the heavens given to people by a magpie messenger. Meanwhile, in Papua New Guinea the first coconut tree reportedly grew out of the skull of a particularly hard-headed man.
The ancient Japanese myths are no exception. Kokugakuin University says that the origins of many foods come from a tale in the "Kojiki," or "Records of Ancient Matters." In it, the God Susanoo kills another god for her unclean serving method, and from her body sprouted rice, silkworms, beans, and millet that would provide food for the world. These aren't the only Japanese foods to have a mythical origin though. Sake, Japan's most famous spirit, also has its origins in the days of myth.
Sake's mythical origins
Knowing about sake is an important step in understanding Japanese culinary culture. Sake is an ancient form of rice wine that is made using a type of fermented rice called koji (per YouTube). The koji is added to water and yeast, then fermented into a low-alcohol spirit that pairs well with many traditional Japanese foods.
An important part of sake's cultural value can be understood in its foundational myth. According to Atlas Obscura, the story goes that sake was created by the god Konohanasakuya-hime who chewed on a grain of rice and spit it into a jar. There, it fermented and became the first sake; a gift from the Gods. This might sound like a bizarre way to start the brewing process, but UCA News reports that brewers in Kagoshima Prefecture followed this method until as late as the seventh century.
Japanese Mythology & Folklore adds that sake is still a drink that is tied to the Gods and ancient Shinto myths. It's considered the drink of the Gods, is brewed in some shrines, and plays a role in many festivals and ceremonies.
Sake's historic origins
Myth and folklore give us a colorful history of sake, but its origins can be traced through history as well. Japanese Sake claims that the drink was actually first made in China around the second-century (BC). The first recorded instance of sake's existence in Japan wouldn't come for another five centuries when it's mentioned as a drink consumed during times of mourning. Brittanica states that rice cultivation in Japan also began around this time, so it didn't take long for this spirited usage of the grain to come about. Eat-Japan reports that the most common brewing method would have involved chewing rice grains just as Konohanasakuya-hime did.
By the seventh and eighth centuries, Japanese Sake says that a sake brewing division was established by the nation's ruling imperial court, and koji rice was introduced into the brewing process. Eat-Japan adds that by the 16th century, the traditional sake brewing methods began to resemble the modern practice. Polished rice was starting to be used more commonly, a form of pasteurization was in use, and filtering allowed clear sake to be enjoyed for the first time during this period as well.
While sake might have divine origins, it's come a long way since then to become a key part of Japanese culture.