This recipe is inspired by puttanesca sauce, which, according to many sources, was a dish that Neapolitan prostitutes in the mid-20thcentury served to their customers. Is that true or just legend? I have no idea, but I know it’s not that backstory that would tempt me to make the sauce. I prefer to emphasize all of its zesty, bold, and briny elements. Serve the sauce with pasta; spoon some sauce into a baking dish, nestle cod or halibut fillets in it, and bake; or grill pita or other flat bread and top it with the sauce.
You can customize the sauce as you like. I can’t handle more than a modicum of chile heat, so I’ve been cautious here. But if you can stand the fire, add more chile than the recipe calls for. If you like tangy flavors, add more olives, and for more salt and umami, increase the amount of anchovies. About those anchovies: Please don’t skip them unless you’re a vegetarian. They add so much to this — and any — dish.
Storage: Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week or freeze in one or more Ziploc plastic freezer bags for up to 3 months.
In a large, wide, heavy saucepan or large, deep sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, celery, and ½ teaspoon of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, fragrant, and lightly golden, 10-15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds or so (don’t let it brown). Add the tomatoes and herbs and bring the tomatoes to a simmer. Reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook uncovered, stirring every once in a while, until the sauce is reduced, glistening with oil, and concentrated in flavor. Taste as you go. It should take between 30 and 40 minutes. Add the hot-pepper sauce, then taste and adjust the flavor balance, if needed, with sugar and with more salt and lemon juice.
In a large, wide, heavy saucepan or a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the anchovies and chiles and cook, stirring once or twice, until slightly sizzling, about 30 seconds. Add the marinara sauce, olives, and capers and cook, stirring often, until heated through and the flavors have blended, about 10 minutes. Stir in the parsley and lemon zest. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and/or pepper (you probably won’t need either).