How to Make Homemade Ice Cream Like a Pro
4. Watch Your Milk
“Be careful when you are heating dairy products,” says Brown. “You really need to watch it and keep stirring or it will boil over.”
5. Straining Fruit Seeds
Don’t waste time straining seeds. Brown says it’s not really necessary and “sort of the misnomer that goes back to classic French cooking when people had a zillion people to do everything in the kitchen.”
6. The Real Difference in Ice Cream Makers
According to Brown, the real difference is “whether you have to freeze the insert or if it has a compressor.” She says that the good ones for which you freeze the insert, you’re looking between 50 and 75 dollars. “As soon as you get to ones that have the built-in compressor, you go up to 200 or 300 dollars.” If you have a machine with an insert, then she suggests that if you have room in your freezer, have a dedicated spot where you keep it, but this is for people who are really into making ice cream.
7. What to Buy?
It depends on how much you want to invest or how often you’re going to make it. If you’re just making ice cream on an occasional basis, then there isn’t a need to get a more expensive machine says Brown. What does she use? “I didn’t use any kind of fancy ice cream maker.” But first she wanted to give a caveat, that she also doesn’t use any fancy kitchen appliances; she cooks on a basic household gas stove. Why? “Because I think that you have to be able to have recipes work in the home kitchen, in a real home kitchen.”
So for this book, Brown tested every recipe using a 1 ½ quart Cuisinart ice cream maker. She adds that she bought a second freezable insert for it so that she could make a few batches in rapid succession, but that a “home cook doesn’t really need that. All of the recipes in Scoop would work in a 1 ½ quart machine.” It’s a relatively affordable and useful tool.
8. Basic Tools
While you only need a few, she recommends an instant-read thermometer (for the custards mentioned above), a candy thermometer, (especially for the sorbet recipes when you’re cooking the sugar syrup). A Microplane grater is useful because there are a lot of zests in ice cream and she thinks that “Microplanes do an absolutely fabulous job on things like fresh ginger.” Also on the list are good, heavy bottomed sauce pans and a few wire mesh strainers.
9. Don’t Have an Ice Cream Maker?
Brown recommends getting one because she says it will never be the same, but “here’s what you can do: If you put your mixture in a low pan and put it in the freezer and then bring it out when it’s about a quarter frozen, and whip it up, you’ll get some aeration.” Keep repeating at intervals until it’s frozen.
Have fun and play around with the seasons. The morning we spoke, Brown had just made a batch of strawberry ice cream with fresh strawberries from her local farmers’ market — and she suggests that you do the same.