Critic Roundup: Alan Richman Digs Montreal's Casual Side

This week in restaurant news, Pete Wells lamented the fall of the small plate at New York's Telepan Local, writing that the new Telepan outpost "offers most of the drawbacks of small-plates eating and almost none of the advantages."

New Village Voice food critic Zachary Feldman kept it ultra-casual at Empire Diner in Chelsea, where he found former Harrison executive chef and Chopped judge Amanda Freitag's greasy spoon. Feldman offered mixed marks, writing the cuisine was "earnest in its interpretations of comfort food," but found that "the culinary fireworks dissipate between menu description and execution."

Alan Richman travelled to Montreal for GQ to sample the cuisine of two newer casual spots, Maison Publique and Vin Papillon. Richman raved about the cuisine at Maison Publique, writing that a serving of boudin — a Canadian breakfast sausage — was "possibly the best boudin ever made, a square of ruthless richness containing pork fat, pork tongue, oats, black pepper, mace, and blood. At Vin Papillon, Wells enjoyed both the cuisine and the ambiance, writing "The food is extremely well-thought-out, and the customers are serious eaters."

Elsewhere, Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Gate sampled Ichi Sushi + Ni Bar in the Mission, where he found that every bite of chef Tim Archuleta's sushi and Japanese cuisine to be "self-contained and seasoned to bring out the best in the fish."

Restaurant Critic Roundup: 4/23/2014





Gael Greene

Insatiable Critic

Bar Bolonat


Pete Wells

The New York Times

Telepan Local

1/4 Stars

Stan Sagner

NY Daily News

Gato 4/5 Stars

Alan Richman


Maison Publique and Vin Papillon

Michael Bauer

San Francisco Gate

Ichi Sushi + Ni Bar 2.5/4 Stars

Zachary Feldman

The Village Voice Empire Diner Mixed

Scott Reitz

Dallas Observer



Adam D'Arpino is the Restaurants Editor at The Daily Meal. Follow him on Twitter @AdamDArpino.