Complementary Cocktails At The Beagle
"The word 'pairing' is misleading, maybe. 'Complement board' might be a better way to put it," muses Dan Greenbaum, bar manager at The Beagle, the young cocktail bar-restaurant mash-up in New York's East Village.
The pairings he's referring to are those that make up what is certainly one of the menu's more intriguing features — a list of individual "boards" that present thoughtfully constructed small bites alongside equally well thought out small cocktails. Roasted lamb neck with a mini Preakness cocktail, burrata and braised celery with a mini gin Martini.
Naysayers of food and drink pairings might want to hold their tongues, as both Greenbaum and owner-general manager Matt Piacentini are quick to stress that these aren't necessarily "pairings" in the traditional sense of the word. For one, though the mini cocktails are served in shot glass-sized glasses, they are not shots intended to be pounded abruptly pre- or post-bite. Nor should they be approached with the same mindset and expectations that one might have from a more classic wine and food pairing.
The concept, Piacentini explains, was inspired by meals of aquavit and herring he enjoyed while traveling in Stockholm. "Separately the flavors are very strong, they may be too much, but together it really works — one of those situations where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts."
And so it is here, taken in interspersed bites and sips, the cocktail is intended to take on a role that is perhaps more accurately described as ingredient than refreshment. Working with chef Garrett Eagleton, formerly of Piacentini's Portland spot Clyde Common, the boards are designed to integrate the cocktail as an actual flavor component in the dish.
Still, the concept does not define the place. There are both individual cocktails and individual dishes to be enjoyed here, not as couples. Notes Piacentini, "We still want it to be a fully functioning cocktail bar for people who don't want to eat." And as that alone, it does not disappoint. There's the Adonis, an excellent sherry-based creation, a favorite of Greenbaum's, that he describes as "dry, sharp, and a great apéritif." Or perhaps try Piacentini's pick, the ethereal and unique Longines Cocktail, made with cognac, gunpowder tea, anis del mono, and fresh lemon juice.
Naturally, the Clyde Common connection begs the obvious question: What does The Beagle have in the way of barrel-aged cocktails? There is only one on the menu at present — the gin-based Tuxedo No. 2 — but it should pique the interest of followers of the trend for the sole fact that it is neither a Negroni nor a Manhattan. Ask Piacentini and Greenbaum about what new directions the technique could be taken in and it quickly becomes obvious that there are true cocktail geeks at play here. Experimenting with un-aged spirits like gin and white whiskey gets mentioned, followed by a description of an already in-progress solera of white Manhattans. The brainstorming continues: What about re-curing a barrel with Campari to make Negronis? What about barrel-aging punch?
Evidence of the duo's enthusiasm for cocktails stacks as you take notice of some of the more subtle details, like the illustrations on the menu indicating how drinks are served (up, rocks, highball). And for those obsessed with artisanal ice, there's more to swoon over. Like the crystal-clear, extra-large hand-cut cubes, and the small pellet-like nuggets produced by an extruder ("When I got that machine I knew my dream of opening a good bar was finally coming true," said Piacentini).
But for all the care and focus on the minutia — the technique, the temperature of the glass, the efficiency of service, the quality of the ice, the speed at which cocktails are strained — their basic philosophy of what makes a good bar is simple and straightforward.
Says Greenbaum, "It's about doing good work when you're at work — taking pride in providing a consistent product at the highest level." The sentiment is echoed by Piacentini, "We're hoping to deliver an experience that makes people go 'Wow,' that gives them a sense of the same excitement we had in creating it."