For Gourmet Scrambled Eggs, Stir In Some Salmon Roe
When the part of you that wants to go out to brunch on a Saturday morning is outnumbered by your desire to avoid long lines and packed dining rooms, whipping up a restaurant-worthy spread at home can be just as satisfying — not just because you don't need to change out of your pajamas.
For an impressive-looking and deceptively simple breakfast, reach for a jar of salmon roe, also known as ikura. If you've never tried it, think of caviar's less costly but equally delicious counterpart as salty, umami boba. The translucent skin of the bright orange fish eggs, which are cured in brine or salt, surrounds a burst of flavorful liquid that tastes like it was plucked straight from the ocean.
You only need a spoonful of the stuff to transform basic scrambled eggs into a decadent and eye-catching treat. Here's our favorite way to approach the pairing, plus some tips for finding the best roe and why the salmon variety works so well with breakfast.
Eggs on eggs
It might seem odd to pair fish eggs with chicken eggs, but if the caviar paste chef Marcus Samuelsson can't stop using for breakfast is any indication, rest assured that the flavors don't cancel each other out. In this case, the fatty texture and delicate flavor of scrambled eggs make the perfect base bright, punchy salmon roe.
To further balance those flavors and add a bit more richness — this is meant to be a luxurious breakfast, after all — add a splash of heavy cream or a dollop of creme fraiche to your egg mixture before pouring it into your pan foaming with melted butter. The only potential side effect of doing so? You might develop a desperate craving for buckwheat blinis, a fancy Eastern European pancake often served as an appetizer topped with smoked salmon, caviar, or roe (plus a dollop of crème fraîche).
Once your eggs are almost to your liking but not quite fully cooked, stir in a spoonful of roe and let the scramble finish cooking off the heat. Plate and serve with an extra dollop of creme fraiche and a sprinkle of dill, chives, or your other favorite chopped herb.
Finding the right roe
Not all salmon roe is created equal — that goes for size, quality, and price. When searching for the best kind, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.
First and foremost, check the label for a letter. Grade A indicates the largest, firmest, and highest quality roe, while Grade B varieties are smaller, softer, and lighter in color. Grade C is the smallest, lightest, and softest roe on the shelf. As you might guess, the highest grade is also the priceiest. For scrambled eggs, Grade A roe will pack in the biggest punch, though it's entirely up to you to find which variety suits your tastes.
Another factor to keep in mind — especially when it comes to price and sustainability — is the species of salmon. Chinook salmon tends to yield the highest quality and most expensive roe, but there's a catch. The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch warns to stick to Chinook that's farmed in New Zealand and to avoid environmentally unfriendly varieties from the Puget Sound Chinook fishery or British Columbia's South Coast.