Buffalo's Signature Sponge Candy Wouldn't Be The Same Without The Cold Climate
Many towns around the country are known for having a trademark candy that they are known for. Take Hershey, Pennsylvania, for example, or Atlantic City in New Jersey, who's known for its boardwalk saltwater taffy. In keeping with the tradition of having a candy to call their own, Buffalo, New York, is known for selling sponge candy (along with plenty of other delicious delicacies).
Contrary to what you may think, Buffalo sponge candy isn't just another name for sponge cake, nor does it refer to candy that tastes like you're chewing on a kitchen sponge (whew!). Sponge candy instead refers to a candy that's very similar to toffee but with a light, airy texture and dotted with tiny holes, much like the surface of an ordinary sponge. Despite being made with sugar, corn syrup, and baking soda, sponge candy is almost exclusively found around the Buffalo area because of how temperature sensitive the candy is. The cooler temperatures of the Buffalo area ensure that the candy stays crisp and light while, on the contrary, warmer temperatures cause the delicate candies to melt.
But what makes it so delicate? Other toffees and taffy candies are sold all over in places that are far warmer than Buffalo without any problem, so what makes Buffalo sponge candy so sensitive to heat despite being made out of three very common ingredients? The answer isn't in the ingredients, but in how those ingredients react to give the candy its famous texture.
Chemical reactions make the candy incredibly delicate
While it is possible to make Buffalo sponge candy in your own home, the reason why the candy is sold in the cooler Buffalo region is that the colder temperatures help keep the candy's structure intact (similar candies can also be found in the UK). Unlike most toffee candies, as we mentioned earlier, the interior of Buffalo sponge candy is riddled with hundreds of tiny pinprick-sized holes. These are caused by a chemical reaction from the addition of baking soda. In some recipes, gelatin, or a combination of baking powder and vinegar, is added to the mixture of sugar and syrup, which in turn causes the release of carbon dioxide into the concoction. This "explosion" of carbon dioxide is what gives the candy its trademark airy and puffy structure — the same structure that is so sensitive to high temperatures.
Because the inside of the candy is hollowed out with all of those tiny holes, it's less stable when compared to other candies. If the candy lacked holes and had a more cohesive structure, it would most likely be much more suitable for preparing and storing in warmer climates. It would seem to the residents of Buffalo that enjoying sponge candy when it's made in Buffalo is the only way to truly consume it without the risk of it melting or losing its signature crispness. However, you can actually bypass a trip to Buffalo and enjoy sponge candy in your own home thanks to the magic of the twenty-first century Internet.
You can order Buffalo sponge candy from many small businesses
While the good people of Buffalo, New York may believe that the best sponge candy can be enjoyed only in their town, you can actually purchase sponge candy from a variety of small businesses and confectionary shops located all around the town and have them shipped directly to your home. Many of these shops feature their own unique take on sponge candy, such as Park Edge Sweet Shoppe which features peanut butter sponge candy dipped in chocolate, or Sweet Jenny's, which makes its own cacao blend and hand-dips every piece.
In order to ensure that the sponge candy arrives in pristine condition instead of a melted mess, these businesses will have to surround the candy in more than a few ice packs to keep it as cold as can be. It may melt somewhat before it reaches you, with the season and temperatures being a big factor, but it will still be perfectly edible and cool enough to enjoy without making a mess. Not only would you be enjoying sponge candy without having to plan a trip out to New York, but you'll also be supporting small businesses while you do so. But if you still want to take a trip out to Buffalo just for kicks, at least bring back a bag or two of sponge candy for the road home.